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Old 01-11-2017, 02:50 PM   #11
Charles Lamont
 
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You should be able to rest the front of the pulley against the bench vice jaws with a couple of bits of wood for protection and tap the spindle out using the pulley to push the distance sleeve off. In fact, if you take the locking grubscrew out of the bull-wheel, it may be better to use the bull-wheel to push the whole lot off in one go. Take it gently, though. The parts diagram shows a little radial pin at the inboard end of the thread, but you will have had to remove that to get the thrust bearing off. No other obstruction is evident from the diagram.


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Old 01-11-2017, 09:13 PM   #12
dieselman
 
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Thanks once again for your suggestions.

Norman - my location is Hamilton, New Zealand.
Charles - thanks for the reply - I too thought about that - was just a little worried about using too much force on the pulley. I have in mind that there is a woodruff key behind the bull-wheel so it would be the pulley cone I would have to use. I will have another look and let you guys know how I get on. Wish me luck!
Roger


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Old 01-12-2017, 12:00 AM   #13
goldstar31
 
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My own progress of getting to grips with the ML10 has come to an abrupt end with the wrecking of my boundary fences in last nights storm. So as far as trying to get some sort of answer to help you has to wait.

Cars, shops and houses have been wrecked and my problems are there fore ' no great thing' With a bit of luck, I might get a few minutes to look at my lathe headstock as the lathe is in bits to carry.

I have the request to be in Rotarua in November. 25 hours flying as an 87 year old and getting insurance is an even bigger problem.

Good luck

Norman
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Old 01-12-2017, 10:30 AM   #14
dieselman
 
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A very big thank you to all of you guys you made me think about the problem and earlier today I managed to dismantle and change the bullwheel! I'm so relieved! Yes you were absolutely right Charles and I followed your suggestion and although it was quite tight it finally came off the spindle - I used a rubber mallet. The putting together again was a lesson in patience everything was 'tight as' (kiwi expression) - the collar did not want to go back on again and although I gave it a good thump there appears to be a little play in the pulley cone - like it has not gone back on far enough. The ball race and adjuster went back ok and the end cog. I remounted the whole assembly onto the shell bearings after coating everything in oil and married up the upper bearing halves and shims. After everything was tightened down I ran the lathe with a mike placed on the front of the mandrel - it moves/flickers a fraction of a thou but looks good - no noise or vibration - no movement apparent from the pulley cone even with that slight play I mentioned earlier. So I'm hoping that might be problem solved - thanks once more.
Norman I hope your home damage is not too great - where abouts are you?
Hope the weather improves for you although in UK you are in winter now eh?
Mind you the summer here in NZ has been very disappointing so far. What takes you to Rotorua?
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Old 01-12-2017, 10:40 AM   #15
goldstar31
 
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I've unearthed my headstock unit for the Myford ML10 and my guess is that your ML7 one is fairly similar.

My Bullwheel seems to be secured with one grub screw- which should be removed completely. Again, at the other end are the external gear. Mine is finally locked with a grub screw- and I would assume that this is already removed along with the collar with another grub screw.

So I am left with a worrying situation of a Chinky zinc alloy metal pulley and an equally fragile (broken) bull wheel in cast iron.
The risk of breaking part of the pulley is high. Confession---- my Super 7 two speed one has a broken bit.
As far as I can see, I would buy or fab a puller which will embrace the widest part of the pulley. I have one which is in two halves - and called a bearing separator rather than the three legged puller. I have both and extractors for ball joints and whatever. So the two sided extractor will exert a wide area!

Experience over far more years than I want to admit suggests a slow and even tightening up but stopping to hit the other end to attempt to knock it off a probable taper or obstruction. I guess that there is a Woodruff key causing the problem.

Whether the bull wheel will 'come' with the pulley is unknown. If it doesn't, then the bearing puller must be employed again.

I costed out the bearing puller( mine was part of a set) and it was only 19.

So back to------------------------mending fences!

Cheers

N


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