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Old 03-08-2008, 11:44 PM   #11
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Default Re: DuraFix Aluminum Rods

Originally Posted by rake60
I've never run an engine on steam that I've used the DuraFix rods on.
Unconstrained water boils at 212 F. At 15 PSI that boiling temp raises to 257 F

I think it would take a whole lot of pressure to raise the temp to 750 F

If it is still not boiling at 750, it might be better if the weld gives way and releases the pressure before the silly thing grenades.


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Old 03-09-2008, 12:01 AM   #12
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Default Re: DuraFix Aluminum Rods

Originally Posted by rake60
I think it would take a whole lot of pressure to raise the temp to 750 F
If I've done my arithmetic correctly, 343 atmospheres or about 5043 psi.

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Old 03-09-2008, 01:09 AM   #13
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Default Re: DuraFix Aluminum Rods

I have not used the Durafix brand name, but I have used several similar products for about 20 years.
They all seem to work about the same as that shown in the Durafix video. On EBay there are several sellers with prices down to about 10 dollars for a quarter pound package with free shipping. Search for ALUMALOY or aluminum repair I have also bought some from Home Depot in the welding section, but it has been several years and I have not looked to see if they still sell it. As I recall there were about 3 sticks in a blister pack for a few dollars.

It works well within it's limitations. It does not flow so it will not wick into a crack. To make a butt joint I have "tinned" both parts and then rubbed them against each other while they were hot so they fused. I made up a temporary drive arm for running the table on my import tool grinder to use as a powered surface grinder. Made two butt joints at about a 30 degree angle with 1/4 x 3/4 6061 bar stock. I milled the ends of the bar so there was a close fit and them butt jointed them as above. This was a temporary job about 15 to 20 years ago, but it has not broken yet so I still have not made up a proper arm.

It takes a LOT of heat to get anything very thick up to temperature as the aluminum is a very good conductor of heat. It turns grey after a few years so any unpainted patch or joint really shows up. It is much harder than aluminum so it is difficult to blend with a file.

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Old 03-09-2008, 01:45 AM   #14
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Default Re: DuraFix Aluminum Rods

Originally Posted by deere_x475guy
If I decide to give it a try I will sell off some of it to any interested members at cost of course.

Would this stuff work for steam? I think I remember it saying that it melts at 750 degree.
Boy that last line was a duh moment...
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Old 03-09-2008, 02:51 AM   #15
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Default Re: DuraFix Aluminum Rods

Similar products were around in the 1930s and were used to repair the diecast grills in cars of that vintage and later. I have used it on a lot of things but never on ferrous material. Aluminum alloys and zinc alloys work fine.

I refer to it as a brazing rod and have made up air conditioning fitting by brazing two halves together to get the combination I needed. I also repaired a broken hinge joint in a folding aluminum ladder that has lasted for a lot of years.
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Old 03-09-2008, 03:34 AM   #16
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Default Re: DuraFix Aluminum Rods

As many of you know I used to run a small engine repair business.

A friend of mine came in here one day with an engine case off his kid's 4 wheeler.
The kid had decided to change the oil himself and got a little confused as to which way
was out on the drain plug. He pulled the threads completely out.

I drilled the drain plug hole oversize, closed it up a bit with the DuraFix rod, ground it
flat, drilled and tapped it. That was 2 years ago. IF that kid can pull the threads out of
that stuff I'll be signing him up for the Ultimate Fighting Championship!

It IS much harder than the base material but it can be machined, ground or filed.
It's much easier to tap or thread then the base material.

I'm very happy that Randy Weeks gave me his permission to show his video here.

When I get time I will do a video of my own to show how it works for me.

Seriously, how many times can THAT happen in one day?
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Old 03-09-2008, 10:21 PM   #17
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Default Re: DuraFix Aluminum Rods

Rick, I can't seem to make the video go. I think I've tried it on other posts and for some reason this
site they dont run. On other BBs I have no problem. Just click or maybe it double click on the triangle
in center. But nothing I can do here works. Any ideas?
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Old 10-24-2011, 01:06 AM   #18
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Default Re: DuraFix Aluminum Rods

I'm going to drag this topic out of the archives. I have a question I hope Rick can answer.

I have a very worn out Clinton engine that my uncle wants rebuilt. The problem is that the bore is oversize and out of round enough to warrant an overbore. The piston is worn undersize and the top ring groove has about .009" clearance.

My question is since oversize pistons are unavailable can I solder the one I have and then turn it to fit a new bore? I am concerned the solder will remelt once the engine is running. Will it stand up to that kind of heat and friction?

I would love to get this engine running again but I'm starting to think it's a lost cause. I would welcome any other suggestions for what to do as well. I will talk to a local automotive machine shop one day this week and see what they recommend.

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Old 10-24-2011, 02:13 AM   #19
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Default Re: DuraFix Aluminum Rods

Jon, I have used that material for some repairs on crankcases and such and it works well, but I really doubt that it would work for building up your piston. It my experience, it does not wet out the base metal very well you have to put it where you want it. I think it would be very hard to build up enough material on your piston to do the job. Also, as I recall, a lot of pistons are high silicon aluminum which may add to the difficulty. It might be possible to tig the OD of the piston and then machine it back, but you'll end up with the worlds most expensive piston for a Clinton. Maybe there's a vintage Clinton group that could help out.
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Old 10-24-2011, 02:20 AM   #20
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Default Re: DuraFix Aluminum Rods

A long shot but would it be possible to cast a piston? I was thinking maybe melt some old pistons to get the correct mix and then cast it and machine it to the tolerances needed.

If the only tool you have is a hammer ............Every job starts looking like a nail.
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