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Old 09-09-2017, 01:23 PM   #61
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I didn't have the room to fit the tool between the end and a dead centre, I now understand what a half dead Center is used for


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Old 09-21-2017, 03:23 PM   #62
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Well until I get a grinder sorted in busy doing nothing today, since i got sent home, (another story, annoyed) i decided to give a few parts a new coat of paint. Degreased, and polished, then figured out how I was going to paint them. All done with a small tipped brush to allow me more control over where the paint was going.

On the gears especially this helped a lot, a little tricky to hold some of the parts though whilst painting as for example the clamp is painted nearly all around, used the bolt for adjustment screwed the other way in to allow it to be held whilst I got all around it. On all the parts I made sure not to touch the mating surfaces with the brush, where I did slip, the paint was removed immediately so as not to interfere with the fit of the components. Just a bit more running and polishing to do on other parts now and reassemble.*

At least if it looks pretty I might get around to sorting some of the other issues too, whilst these parts are disassembled I'll be making drawings of parts such as the bearings, and gear holders for the change gears. You never know when you might need them. And once back together will be a pain to strip out again to measure so might as well do it now.*


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Old 09-21-2017, 11:04 PM   #63
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Looking great.Doing it this way gives immense satisfaction BUT MORE IMPORTANT it gets you familiar with all the working parts and the confidence
to strip down and reassemble. Like the colour
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Old 09-22-2017, 08:12 AM   #64
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Thank Baz, it was a toss up between blue or red as I have surplus of these colours. Red means danger so I decided to go blue as I like blue a lot more.

A little disappointed with the result, the paint was mixed well but after a night in the shed is still tacky, (it was cold last night though, and the shed isn't insulated).

Question:- I've baked paint on in the oven before, gets rid of the solvents that stop it curing. (The missus is at work so I can get away with it) Can I bake cast iron in the oven on a low heat say 50c or do I risk cracking a casting? The gears aren't a problem but the tailstock has two steel bolts still in it, and the expansion of the indifferent metals has me worried.

Am I better to just leave the parts in the house for a day and wait for them to cure at ambient temperature? Save risking my tailstock from possibly cracking?
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Old 09-22-2017, 12:26 PM   #65
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I don't know exactly how your paint will react if you try to dry it in the oven, but in situations like this I usually have enough other things to clean up that there is time for the paint to air-dry while I attack those other things. If you just can get away with having the parts inside in the warm house that may help you enough.

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Old 09-22-2017, 12:40 PM   #66
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If the wife is out then use her hair dryer.Once the castings are warmed
they stay warm for quite a while.No chance of cracking at low temps
I had the same problem a few days ago.Still tacky after 24 hrs but i
was patient and found something else to do.The 2nd 24 hrs fixed the
problem.Nice and dry but not fully cured for another 24 hrs
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Old 09-22-2017, 12:59 PM   #67
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Well I can be an impatient fellow, and I've only got a small amount for space to work in, so at the moment the parts for the change gears and the tailstock are filling the space I'd need to strip down something else and paint that.

The parts were put in the oven on the lowest setting for an hour, I haven't opened the oven up yet to see the results, one because I've got mucky hands and two because I didn't want to induce a cold shock yo the parts, I know I'm probably been over cautious but rather that than bugger up the tailstock. Or crack a gear.

As for finish in the oven well see in around another hour when I'm back from the shops. A lot of the time when paint is tacky it's the solvents that haven't evaporated that cause them to be tacky, so a warm 50 should have evaporated the solvents. Just got to remember to take them out before the missus finds them making tea lol
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Old 09-22-2017, 01:04 PM   #68
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Only problem is now I can see me wanting to strip the whole thing down to repaint, but I'll settle for now just repainting and refurbishing the accessories like the traveling and fixed steady. Need to make a bolt too for the traveling steady think it's 1/4" BSW but will have to go back over my postings as I've forgotten now.
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Old Yesterday, 04:08 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCSteam View Post
and two because I didn't want to induce a cold shock yo the parts, I know I'm probably been over cautious but rather that than bugger up the tailstock. Or crack a gear.
Definitely being a bit overcautious here. To set your mind at ease, my shed gets well over 50 degrees C in summer and parts are regularly 'cold shocked' with water dripping off me (to stay in the shed at these temps for any worthwhile length of time you need to saturate your shirt and stand in front of a fan). At these low temperature variations there is no risk at all of cracking.
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Old Yesterday, 04:30 AM   #70
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Probably JC is being a 'windy' and coming from a so called temperate climate we see very few dogs frozen to lampposts or road tar melting on the streets of Darlington.

What is important, said me postulating as usual, is machining old castings that distort as if by magic. I recall somewhat bitterly of carefully boring an original Westbury mill drill headstock and being 'ever so clever' in boring the brute to 'plus and minus nowt' and then cutting it so that it would clamp on the pillar. The bugger warped and I had to scrape it by hand to fit again. Dear old Ned never squeaked about that in his 'words and music' on its construction.

And would be Quorn builders, if you get down to the plus 3 thous or less, cutting can release all sorts of stresses. Incidentally, do people actually make Quorns any more?

Clears throat

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