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Home Model Engine Machinist > Showing Them > A Work In Progress > my attempt at Rupnows imperialized ridders flame eater

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Old 04-17-2018, 01:27 PM   #21
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now on the subject of laping compound. here is a picture of what I have in stock. how do you compare the microns to "grit" ? is there a chart or something I can cross it over to?


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Old 04-17-2018, 01:31 PM   #22
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just found this chart. looks like the 28 micron is very close to the 600 grit mark. would that be correct?


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Old 04-17-2018, 04:23 PM   #23
Brian Rupnow
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Yes. it is close. I can't remember what diamond grit I used because I only used it once.
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Old 04-17-2018, 07:45 PM   #24
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A quote I remember Bob Shores using, [ be careful using diamond grit, "diamonds are forever"]

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Old 04-23-2018, 01:02 PM   #25
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not much progress this weekend. wind blew down my tv as well as internet communications pole. spent Saturday night putting in a new post and then almost all day Sunday trying to realign my dish to no avail. I did get internet back up but not tv... oh well the Dish man will be here Tuesday to fix that. anyway I did manage to hog down the flat for the intake area of the cylinder. in the pic you will notice I put a verticle flat on the washer as well. when I originally made the washer I realized it didn't have anywhere for my edge finder to hit so I could locate the edge of the cylinder length wise so I cut an edge off that washer for that. and as I mill down I am also milling down the top of the washer. hogged it down till about .010 left to slow cut on. hope to get that tonight. or hey, looks like ill be off work Tuesday all day waiting on the satellite dish person to show up...
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Old 04-25-2018, 01:51 PM   #26
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got the intake slot milled out and the flats for the legs milled. only have a picture of the flats.

now, on the hole for the pushrod that must be drilled the length of the cylinder. I am seeing different ideas out there. like drilling from each end and putting in a bushing on each side which is something I don't want to do because ill never hit from both sides straight. so I'm wondering what type of drill bit could I order to make this drill nice and straight and that long? just looking for recommendations on this one. my drill is only long enough to reach half way (and I'm sure theres a "that's what she said" joke in there)
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Old 04-25-2018, 04:57 PM   #27
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had a little more time to think about this, if I did have to drill half way then flip around, my concern is locating the drill on the opposite end and how I would ever measure it. id like to drill it the full way if that's the recommended way but if flipping it turns out to be recommended, then what about a setup like this:
drill the first half while in the rotary table and square to the other cuts and where it really needs to be. then switch to a milling vice, insert a scrap of 1/2 aluminum plate. drill and tap a hole to run a clamping bolt through to hold the cylinder in place. I will run the bolt through the cylinder and have plenty of side to side room to adjust.
then move the table over to where the push rod hole should go and drill the correct size hole and insert an alignment pin in.

put the cylinder with the half length hole drilled on that pin and run the clamp bolt through the center of the cylinder to tighten it down. this way the pilot pin hole never gets moved and the mill head never gets moved after drilling it. thus the other end of the cylinder should be properly aligned and can be drill from the other side and meet somewhere in the middle. ? is that how you would do it if you had to drill both ends?
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Old 04-25-2018, 08:13 PM   #28
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Check the length of your 1/8" drill. Mine is 2.580" long, and that's long enough to go all the way thru the cylinder in one set-up. That hole is fairly critical. Buy a longer drill if you have to.---Brian


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