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Old 10-03-2017, 09:17 AM   #121
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Originally Posted by JCSteam View Post
Norm interesting thoughts, (as always), if you just spelled it out for me sometimes would be a lot easier. I like the idea of a dividing head, and vertical slide. Wouldn't need too much adaption would it
As far as I can see it, one simply follows someone like Geo Thomas in his 'Workshop Techniques' to have adapt a casting with a 65 tooth bullwheel to do more than the simple 5 and 13. Mine has the two wormwheels a la GHT but that's GHT! You NEED the book.
As for vertical slides from top slides, it is simply adding a block of square metal and getting a vertical of 90 degrees.


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Old 10-03-2017, 02:29 PM   #122
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Jon, the reason the bearings became loose is probably the peelable shims are missing at least two people have mentioned it as the reason for the cracking problem
Measure the gap with feeler gauges and either leave them in or sort a shim out it may save some heartache later on. Put simply the adjusting screw has nowt to nip down on and comes loose or some heavy handed so and so over tightens shortly followed by the infamous cracked headstock
Just my two penneth take it or leave it
cheers


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Old 10-03-2017, 03:04 PM   #123
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Jon, the reason the bearings became loose is probably the peelable shims are missing at least two people have mentioned it as the reason for the cracking problem
Measure the gap with feeler gauges and either leave them in or sort a shim out it may save some heartache later on. Put simply the adjusting screw has nowt to nip down on and comes loose or some heavy handed so and so over tightens shortly followed by the infamous cracked headstock
Just my two penneth take it or leave it
cheers
Fraser might be right and so might I ! Frankly, Jon has failed to - yet again- to give people who may be able to help sufficient information about HIS lathe.
If the lathe is an older version, it will have a single clamp to each journalwhereas, if it is more recent( Errr, uhmm) it will have two bolts to hold down each of the split bearings. or a single bearing at each journal

If there is wear, and Fraser's single bolt arrangement is found, the only safe way to take up the wear is by fitting a slightly thicker spindle and the other obvious result might be 'Crack' and end the story!
Alternatively, if my thoughts are correct, the bearings can either be replaced or built up from reticulated tin salvaged from scrap crankshafts for one cheap way.

Frankly, I'm getting weary of the possibility of upsetting other helpful people because of someone else's refusal to give proper information.

I'm ready to simply ignore the problem and tackle more rewarding challenges.

Norm
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Old 10-03-2017, 03:11 PM   #124
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First attempt at making an oil cup, hasn't gone so well, removed 7thou too much from the end that goes into the headstock so it's a loose fit. Not good! Will try again, though this one has at least sorted out what steps I need to take and what order, so the next two will be quicker.

Could have sworn I'd taken more photos, steps I took were to face off the large end of the blank, the turn the outside so I had a good finish, thi was then spot drilled, then drilled with a 7mm bit then stepped upto the large taper drill you can see in the photo bellow. This has a tapered point to it and left a nice changer to the edge no need to bore it.

The blank was then turned and trued up in the 3jaw, needed packing one side to run concentric with what I had turned on the outside, I stepped the edges turning the nub on the end to what i thought was final diameter, and then proceeded to turn a cone on the end towards the nub. This was then drilled with a 1mm drill bit.
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Old 10-03-2017, 03:13 PM   #125
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Sorry you feel that way Norm.
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Old 10-03-2017, 10:51 PM   #126
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Guys I'm sorry for been thick, (it's become apparent to me recently), when you were all on about peelable shims missing, I thought you were meaning that the shims should have been fitted between the bearings, and the casting. Having had some conference with Frazer, I think I'm now on the same page as the rest of you, (I'm a visual learner, than a written word learner).

So these peelable shims should be fitted at the front of the lathe, in the void between the bolt that clamps the casting down. Both at the chuck and change gear end.

To answer the questions yes the peelable shims are missing, the lathe is the older type with just one bolt per bearing to tighten them. Yes this is an early lathe headstock that can go crack and never be the same again.

Again sorry for been slow on the uptake. Shims will be made up to fit into the void
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Old 10-03-2017, 10:52 PM   #127
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Jon,

I too am feeling the way Norm is, very little info supplied.

To me you are trying to run before you can walk.

Your first issue HAS TO BE the headstock, but because you haven't supplied a single photo taken from above, so we just can't categorize or identify it correctly.. If you don't get the headstock sorted first, you are just pi**ing against the wind with everything else you are trying.

I could get you many photos of what it should look like and how I fixed things as it is still easily available to me, but without help from yourself, why should I bother?

John
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Old 10-03-2017, 11:24 PM   #128
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Sorry everyone!

I thought I'd suppied as much info as I could but it seems I'm mistaken.

These photos have all been posted to the thread, if you needed something more specific, or from a different angle it would have been nice to be asked such.

Yes I'm a beginner, which comes with it a lack of understanding, both with terminology and with the layout and what info is needed to gauge a true diagnosis of the problems that I have/haven't got with my lathe.

It's worth pointing out I feel at this time I'm struggling financially, having been through 2jobs already this year, and now been paid minimum, having my monthly income decrease by a third. I am short on time, having 5 kids to look after over the weekends, and a two year old full time. All this means I'm left with a basic set up at best, a kitchen base unit, and worktop that I got from freegal, a rickety shed I've repaired best I can and levelled on recycled slate roofing. Using an electric extension lead to provide power to the shed.

It can be deduced that experience I value greatly, means to rectify issues are slim. Time to work in the shed sometime none existant!

If you can't bear with me then I probably shouldn't be here.

All these photos below have been posted on this thread.
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Old 10-03-2017, 11:48 PM   #129
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Please forgive me if I'm out of line, but while turning the oil pot, I turned it round in the chuck and it was running out of concentric, I packed one of the jaws with a piece of Pepsi can and got it running true, to machine the lower part of the pot. No one told me I should do it that way, I know it isn't correct, but it's a fix until I have the means to try and true the run out of the chuck up properly.

The worn saddle was causing issues because small bits of brass and steel chips, were getting underneath the saddle, and causing it jam up, or become stiff when in use. Again a Pepsi can cut to the width of the bed, and a screw put into the middle of the bed, in the hole for fastening the traveling steady, I have an improvised chip tray that means that most of the chips end up away from the ways. Yes the correct way would be to skim bed and saddle, and shim the saddle, do I have means or money to do that no!

I am improvising and finding solutions to what i can within my means. They aren't the correct way to achieve a lathe that's pin point accurate, but this lathe is older than my dad by half my age. Do i expect it to be precision? Nope not really!

Anyhow I'm off to play with a traction engine at the weekend, it may renew my enthusiasm!
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Old 10-04-2017, 03:34 AM   #130
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Carry on as you are your doing fine. Its not your lack of knowledge/experience/
or finances are niggling people its just the lack of information.Everybody will bend over backwards with help/advice but give us plenty of photos and ask questions no matter how daft. Regards Barry


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