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Old 08-08-2016, 07:53 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blogwitch View Post
All I could suggest James, after I was confronted with the same problems, look to the walls.

Get as many shelves and racks in there as you can and lay things out logically.
Put everything for the lathe within easy reach of the lathe, later, when maybe you have a mill, do exactly the same thing. Create machine zones, each with it's own area, just enough to comfortably work in.

John
John - that's the plan. I have moved a lot of low usage tools or woodworking tools to the wall on the opposite side of the garage to the bench. The reason being when I am doing woodwork the car is in the driveway, I have the tablesaw setup and I'm working over that side (mostly).

I'm planning to make stands for the lathe and mill which have integrated tool chests (see stand image earlier in thread) in them so that key tools are located right by the appropriate tool. I'll also have tooling on peg-board above the bench. Along with part draws that are hung on the wall.
http://nz.element14.com/raaco/126762...ent/dp/1367091

Cheers,
James.


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Old 08-08-2016, 08:17 AM   #72
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Very nice James.

I have about a dozen of those small parts draws, but they do have a down side.
Because of the small gap above the draw, it is an entry point for swarf and other debris. Keep them well away from your machines.
If I don't go into a draw for a while, the ones closest to my machines, I have to sort through debris before I get down to whatever is in the slide drawer.

I have tried all sorts of new systems, all to no avail, they still get filled up with swarf. Just get used to cleaning them out every so often. The only other way would be to hang a sheet of polythene in front of them. I even tried that, but it stops you getting into the drawers easily.

Have fun

John


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Old 08-08-2016, 09:07 AM   #73
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Possible Lathe and Mill placement. Assuming a Lathe table of 800mm x 1700mm and Mill table of 800mm x 800mm with a 1200mm walking distance between equipment and workbench. Machines could be pushed a little more towards the car zone to increase walking clearance.

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Old 08-08-2016, 09:13 AM   #74
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Lighting - don't forget lighting



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Old 08-08-2016, 09:34 AM   #75
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Lighting - don't forget lighting



Bruce
Yup - have dual 1200mm fluorescent fixtures. One centre of car zone, one directly over lathe position, one over workbench. Will be adding more over length of workbench as well as getting led or halogen flexible neck work area lights to add to lathe and mill. That should fix the frequency issue on the fluorescent tubes for rotating parts.

I also have electrical points wired to the ceiling between lathe/mill and at other end of lathe (referenced from insert below) as well as at 4 positions along the length the workbench. The Lathe and Mill have access to a 15 amp circuit and there is a 15 amp circuit on two of the four bench located points. The 15amp circuits are to provide flexibility of where I connect my welder. A nice little BOC Multiprocess unit (MIG/MAG, DC TIG, DC Stick) http://www.boc.co.nz/shop/en/nz/boc-...ess-175-welder
Click image for larger version

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Alternative layout that brings the machines closer to one of the dual 15amp sockets in the ceiling.
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Old 08-08-2016, 10:40 AM   #76
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You have more space than me. I've only got a total of 2.4 x 4.8 including all the shelves and benches. Being prepared to spend a bit on storage is the key to making it work in a small space. I spent about $1500 on storage, some of which was in my garden shed to make sure my shed was 100% man cave.

Also consider where your bandsaw will go.

I have this one. Nice little saw.
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/B003

And the mill table travels over it on a custom stand.

After I wore out the smaller bs4. I really wanted this one

https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/B006

You can fit it in.... place it so material can go accross your wifes car for those long jobs you get once in a while.
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Old 08-08-2016, 10:47 AM   #77
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Originally Posted by goldstar31 View Post
In this decision making, probably whatever it is should come with a face plate, a catch plate, centres, a three jaw, a four jaw and both steadies as swell as summat to hold lathe tools. QCTP is an accessory designed primarily for discussion groups and 'people who are incapable of cutting up drinks cans to make shims'. Once you have cut the shims, you glue the appropriate number under the lathe tool.

All go at the Norman castle
I tend to agree and wonder if all the hype on the QCTP is worth it. It is certainly very quick with multiple tools at your fingertips. The glue is a good idea. I knew I did something wrong after I managed to empty and cut up the beer cans.... hacksaw blades and old bandsaw blades are also handy. Then the QCTP turned up....
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Old 08-08-2016, 11:43 AM   #78
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Yesterday I discovered the offer for sale of a 6 station capstan attachment which the seller had no idea of whether it was from a Myford or not. The price was 'advantageous' as the French say. Whether it becomes mine is anyone's guess but it prompted us to discuss QCTP's. For my sins, I have two. Both fit the Super 7 but both are an 1/8th 'out' for the smaller ML10. As Cousin Rowan- Mr Bean would say- Bugger! Both are hardened and getting an 1/8th off is just that. We both have been- about a bit. He lived next door to Rowan when Rowan ran around in his Mum's Morris Minor. QCTP's can be a bit 'wobbly'
In local parlance, they rattle around like a pea on a drum!
Baz's efforts in making several 3 way things follows the designer- the late David Lammas- to have quoted:-
Less danger of accidental injury
Fewer tool shapes do more work
Fouling of workpieces does not occur
Fast interchange of tools
Cheap to use because the simple casting can be machined on the lathe from which it will be used
Because it is cheap, we can afford more than one tool post
- and so on.
If minded, I can litter the workshop with the things because I have a huge chunk of Meehanite which was a rusty marking out table- that cost 3.

But dear old and much lamented Jack Radford toiling his way in Kiwi land thought little of even rigidity of top slides and invented a new casting -to simply dispense with the top slide for most times -apart from screwcutting on an Ash Wednesday.
Cleeve was simpler still and with 4 bits of flat plate made front turrets by bolting them together. The rear turret is made from 3. I've still got it and it fits the Super7. Because there is 'room', it will fit the smaller ML10. It fitted a subtable on a 918- just like that.
What is cheaper and easier?

My thoughts are- Think again! I did- when? Too old to remember but that's life

Norman
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Old 08-08-2016, 01:26 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by joco-nz View Post
Yup - have dual 1200mm fluorescent fixtures. One centre of car zone, one directly over lathe position, one over workbench. Will be adding more over length of workbench as well as getting led or halogen flexible neck work area lights to add to lathe and mill. That should fix the frequency issue on the fluorescent tubes for rotating parts.

I also have electrical points wired to the ceiling between lathe/mill and at other end of lathe (referenced from insert below) as well as at 4 positions along the length the workbench. The Lathe and Mill have access to a 15 amp circuit and there is a 15 amp circuit on two of the four bench located points. The 15amp circuits are to provide flexibility of where I connect my welder. A nice little BOC Multiprocess unit (MIG/MAG, DC TIG, DC Stick) http://www.boc.co.nz/shop/en/nz/boc-...ess-175-welder
Attachment 83616

Alternative layout that brings the machines closer to one of the dual 15amp sockets in the ceiling.
Attachment 83615

That layout has me thinking that the lathes will eventually be hit by the car to be parked in the garage. At least it looks that way, I'm not sure what the relative width is with respect to the car going into the parking position. It would be a concern for me, Opening the doors on the car can't be an issue either.

Working in a tight space is never easy but I might consider light weight benches on wheel to be located along side the car park area. This for a couple of reasons, I prefer big heavy tools to be mounted on heavy benches ideally semi permanent. Second being free to move a work bench around solves access issues if you happen to get involved in non model engineering uses of the bench. Say for example house repairs, a bench with a clear top and 360 access comes in handy for window and acre repairs. Actually useful for larger assemblies of any type.

In short I'd avoid position a lathe in such a way that it says hit me!
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Old 08-08-2016, 01:51 PM   #80
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I tend to agree and wonder if all the hype on the QCTP is worth it. It is certainly very quick with multiple tools at your fingertips. The glue is a good idea. I knew I did something wrong after I managed to empty and cut up the beer cans.... hacksaw blades and old bandsaw blades are also handy. Then the QCTP turned up....

QCTP are very nice to have, however they are an additional expense to get yourself started. Personally I hate shimming tools, it is a big distraction and fiddly at best. Long term though a QCTP is a big convenience which is why there are so many DIY approaches and commercial offerings. There are probably a 100 different designs for QCTP floating around the model model engineering world as people come up with their own solutions or variants on others.

Personally if I was to do a QCTP I'd either buy or make a unit compatible with a commercial offering. Eventually you will find yourself at an auction where one or more of those tool holders will be in a box of junk that goes for a song. I've bought almost all of my high speed tooling this way, often unexpectedly as my bidding was focused on other content in the box. I probably have more high speed steel cutters than I will ever use at this point.

In any event I digress here. A QCTP is a very useful upgrade. This especially on old lathes with lantern type tool holders. It is not however a required upgrade. The big advantage you get with QCTP is the specialized tool holders that allow you to hold boring bars and cut off tools without the drama of getting everything in position again. This is especially useful for tool holders that hold cut off blades at an angle. Setting up center height after adjusting stick out is a breeze.


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