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 Home Model Engine Machinist > Rod's Aussie Shed

02-16-2013, 02:17 AM   #81
gus

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Quote:
 Originally Posted by rodw I agree with a lot you say. It is 30 years since we only taught metric in high school and I think I was lucky because I started high school the year before. I do remember being relieved that we did not have to do sums in quarts, pints and gallons and the like any more! For me, measurements of rainfall, property areas and temperature were the last to gel. Gowing up on a 40,000 Ha property like I did never sounds as impressive as saying 100,000 acres! But then I lived briefly in northern Queensland where properties were measured in square miles. This sounded really impressive but when a guy told me he had 100 square miles. I eventually did the maths in my head to find he only owned 64,000 acres (stuff the Ha!) which was a small holding by my experience! However, having studied some engineering along the way, there is no doubt that the SI metric system is vastly easier to work with when calculating things like power, force and the like. However today, the software which did not exist in my time probably does it all for you. I think when we are just in the workshop choosing between feet and metres, we never get to appreciate this logical systematic approach underpinning the SI system. I have long since personally adopted the metric system, I never buy a tape measure with inches and am a member on this forum simply because your EZ steam engine has a metric plan available! This Wiki link about the Aussie Metrification process and the links at the top of the page to the US and UK experiences makes interesting reading. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metrication_in_Australia Interesting that only 3 countries in the world remain in the imperial world. Whether we like it or not regardless of where we live, we are all going to have to deal with both systems due to the rich legacy of Imperial units and the logical thought behind the SI system as a whole. I think it is only in the last 5 years or so that our houses are fastened with M12 bolts instead of 1/2". I always found this frustrating when I went bolt shopping to have to come home with imperial ones!
Hi Rod.

Like you ,I grew up with Pounds,Shilling,Pence and Farthing. Ounces,Pounds,
Hundredweights,Tons. Furlong,miles,leagues etc. Took a 8 year old some time to absorb.Properties here are still in sq. foot.!!!
Upon graduation,fortunately I worked with an American Company which stuck to HP,CFM,GPM etc till 2001.But I adjusted very quickly to metric when working in China till 2011.
Took me a long time to reconcile and use Metric Threads and all because BSW,BSF,BA fasteners are hard to buy.
Pipe threads here are still to Imperial.

Going Burma for deep sea fishing tomorrow. The 3rd Genearation Deep Sea Rod Holder will be to put to use. Fotos will follow.
Thanks for helping me decide to buy the BandSaw. Just Discovered I cannot live w/o the BandSaw.Wee bitty tapping fluid makes sawing easier.
The Makita BandSaw Blade is still very sharp after so many cutting.

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02-16-2013, 09:37 AM   #82
rodw

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Quote:
 Originally Posted by gus Hi Rod. Thanks for helping me decide to buy the BandSaw. Just Discovered I cannot live w/o the BandSaw.Wee bitty tapping fluid makes sawing easier. The Makita BandSaw Blade is still very sharp after so many cutting.
Gus, I am sure my part was very small. I had never seen a bandsaw like yours until you posted pics on the forum! Yes, I do find some cutting fluid helps and in my experience the blades break before they wear out! Still, they are a lot cheaper to run than a cutoff/chop saw and can cut a much larger range of material.

Anyway, this morning, I finally got up to date with my production of HDPE plastic blocks which I was meant to get done before Christmas. My new lathe makes it so much quicker, probably at least twice as fast and the finish is so much better, particularly if running a fast feed rate. In fact, it was so good, I started to skim the faces I cut with my previous lathe as it was embarrassing to see the previous quality.

It started to rain this afternoon and because I ave been promoted to a senior member without ever building a model engine, I decided I better have a go at one.

I made the base and frame of the EZ and drilled and tapped all of the holes. I also cut a flywheel out of 6mm plate but I am a bit worried because the metric plans say to make it 50mm (2") but the imperial plans show it as 3". Hope it works out OK with the smaller flywheel, but it won't be too hard to remake it!

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RodW
Brisbane, Australia
vehiclemods.net.au

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02-20-2013, 05:30 AM   #83

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Quote:
 Originally Posted by rodw Gus, I am sure my part was very small. I had never seen a bandsaw like yours until you posted pics on the forum! Yes, I do find some cutting fluid helps and in my experience the blades break before they wear out! Still, they are a lot cheaper to run than a cutoff/chop saw and can cut a much larger range of material.
Hi Rod, Those cut-off band saws would have to be one of the best bargains on the planet. Very useful. As you probably know, he blades break because they are being twisted during each rev around the wheels. The blade usually starts making a rapid "ticking" or "clicking" sound not too long before it breaks.

If you have a careful look at the blade, you will see minute cracks heading across the blade from the gullet of nearly every tooth. These are the result of the twisting and that's what makes the noise.

The trick is to have the blade only just tight enough to drive. It will still break eventually, but will last a bit longer...

Regards, RossG.
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02-20-2013, 08:57 AM   #84
Hopper

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Rod, where do you buy your brass and aluminium material from? I am in Qld and looking for a good source that will do mail order. Due to health I can't get around the junkyards much and need a not-to-expensive supplier for a couple of Stirling projects I want to do.

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02-20-2013, 11:02 AM   #85
rodw

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Quote:
 Originally Posted by Hopper Rod, where do you buy your brass and aluminium material from? I am in Qld and looking for a good source that will do mail order. Due to health I can't get around the junkyards much and need a not-to-expensive supplier for a couple of Stirling projects I want to do.
Hopper, I have got brass in 300mm lengths from each of these guys
http://www.hobbymechanics.com.au/ at Sunnybank

http://www.minitech.com.au/ at Brendale (who have a shop)

Larger pieces you could probably get cut at Bohlers discussed earlier in this thread. Minimum order is \$50 and they won't cut material under an inch thick somebody said.

The aluminium I get from Action Aluminium at Coopers Plains http://www.actionaluminium.com.au/. You can see them from Beaudesert Road but the access winds in off Bradman Street. They have everything and cut to size regardless of order quantity. Most of the stuff I have bought from them has been short offcuts but have seen the cutting gear blanks a few mm long for machine shops.

For structural steel in lengths I go to Metalcorp at Oxley. They will usually sell half a length.
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02-21-2013, 02:19 AM   #86
Hopper

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Quote:
 Originally Posted by rodw Hopper, I have got brass in 300mm lengths from each of these guys http://www.hobbymechanics.com.au/ at Sunnybank http://www.minitech.com.au/ at Brendale (who have a shop) Larger pieces you could probably get cut at Bohlers discussed earlier in this thread. Minimum order is \$50 and they won't cut material under an inch thick somebody said. The aluminium I get from Action Aluminium at Coopers Plains http://www.actionaluminium.com.au/. You can see them from Beaudesert Road but the access winds in off Bradman Street. They have everything and cut to size regardless of order quantity. Most of the stuff I have bought from them has been short offcuts but have seen the cutting gear blanks a few mm long for machine shops. For structural steel in lengths I go to Metalcorp at Oxley. They will usually sell half a length.
Thanks mate. Should save me a lot of running about.

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02-23-2013, 12:32 PM   #87
rodw

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I thought I would update this thread from time to time about things tools I add or make for my shed as opposed to making something.

My shed is starting to evolve OK now. I have been collecting a few bits and pieces via eBay over the last week but still have more stuff on its way.

I was getting sick of swapping over the drawbars whenever I wanted to drill a hole, so I got a 16mm keyless chuck with an M12 thread in the arbor.

I have not had one of these before It is very big so perhaps a 13mm one would be better on the Seig SX3. If I decide to buy a 13mm one, this one can move to my lathe where the extra length won't be a drama.

Some of the other goodies I rounded up

I had seen the circle centre finder before and I thought they were really clever. I also bought a slitting saw and 4 assorted blades. I guess I will find a use for it. I also bought a tailstock die holder for 1" dies which was pretty cheap so I thought it would be handy. I did have a go at making one ages ago, but I was not happy with the arbor I made for it, one day, I will give it another go.

I have got some transfer punches still coming. Australia is a big country. It takes a long time to get a parcel from the west coast to the east it seems!

I decided to have a go at making a 10 degree angle block for a job I have in mind while I was waiting for the V block to turn up. Based on some feedback from the forum, I made a quick sketch and placed a couple of 5mm holes on a 10 degree angle from the origin. I started by hacking some mild steel down to size.

I worked out the number of clicks I had to move the mill and wrote them on the plan. The Seig has 100 clicks per revolution. Then I indicated in the origin and wound the mill out to the hole positions and drilled some 4.5m holes which I reamed out to 5mm. Then I held a 1/8" parallel against the pins and scribed a line to mill to.

I parted off couple of pieces of 5 mm rod ratted out of an old laser printer and hung the part on the top of the milling vice.

I was very happy with the accuracy of my second freehand cut on the bandsaw as it only took 2 passes with an endmill to clean it up.

It did not take long to finish it off. I number stamped the angle on it in case I forget and added a logo stamp just because I could!

I don't have a linisher in my shop but cleaned it up OK on a metalwork belt sander. Not ideal, but it worked!

I did a quick trial cut of some ally bar using one of my new V blocks and it works a treat.

I am slowly making progress on my EZ steam engine, got the piston and valve finished off today, and will post something once I get it going. I was happy how the piston came together, so I think it will run when I get it done I think the hard stuff has been done now. I will say I have to get better at reading plans, I am not used to following others instructions it seems!

I can't believe how easy a decent lathe has made my life. I wanted to turn the base of the piston to 6mm. I worked out I needed 18 clicks on the crosslide to get it to size I ran 2 passes of 9 clicks and it was spot on to 0.01 of a mm so I am very happy with the improvement over my last lathe.
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03-14-2013, 11:42 AM   #88
rodw

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Well, I have been slowly adding to my tooling list making a few things and buying stuff when I can afford it. My QCTP holders seem to be breeding like wire coathangers

I also decided to try mounting up a spare cheap drill press vice to my bandsaw. I started with weding up a 10mm plate as the material I had was not quite big enough

I always forget to remove my glasses when welding and can never see so I ground off the weld before being game to publish a photo

And after drilling and tapping a couple of holes including a hole in the vice itself, it was ready fr its first cut.

Which finally ended up with something that looked like this

You can see that the vice now just bolts on in place of the swivel jaw and is tightened up against the fixed jaw after squaring with the blade. It might not be as clever as some other ideas with bolts to adjust at the back of the vice and it can't cut on an angle but it handles what I want to do.

Now that I had this done, I had this 30mm wide L shaped scrap left over from my carriage block that was screaming make something out of me.

The vice is about 5 mm away from the blade and I found it easy as to split this piece in half without any dramas at all. The cut was nice and straight so I got stuck into it and got an opportunity to use my slitting saw for the first time.

This is what I came up with.

The scrap started out in life as being a 30mm offcut of 5x65mm ally and the 5 mm was just long enough to hold it in a BXA holder with three screws. I am looking forward to trying it out with my 4 jaw chuck which I have not used on this lathe yet.

The holder is about 15mm square and I used an M5 bolt for the clamp. I drilled the hole through, counter bored the end with an end mill and then tapped it using the tapping feature on the SX3. I had heard this was pretty average but I found it worked perfectly much to my surprise! I may not use my geared tapping attachment any longer! The hole for the indicator was drilled 7.5mm and then reamed to 8mm. You can see I still have not bought a linisher yet but it is very serviceable even if not pretty. I am looking forward to using it!

The next modification was a bit more complicated. I was quite intrigued with 5C collets and then found that there was a 5C collet fixture that would fit the 38mm spindle on my lathe. Trumpy on the forum here gave me a few surplus 5C collets so I was hooked! ON hte first day of Hare and Forbes sale, I was down here to pick up a collet block and a spindle fixture.

I thought I had the clearance but when I got it home, I found the drive pulley was very close to the spindle and I could not get a spacer flange past it. I was a bit despondent at this and got as far as putting it in my car to return it but Trumpy spurred me on and I did a deal with Chriss down the street who turned the pulley down in exchange or a beer one afternoon. He took a couple of mm off the pulley so it was flush with the belt, not sticking up proud.

You can see there is not much room. I had a piece of 1 1/2" water pipe here and I polished out the bore with a light cu on the lathe so it would fit over the collet drawbar and turned it down to get past the pulley.

We are on a winner now!

I actually made the reduced section a bit too thin so I need to remake it now I have a bit more room but of course I am out of water pipe! Anyway, it is quite serviceable as it is.
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RodW
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03-14-2013, 11:57 AM   #89
rodw

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I thought the last post was long enough. Today was a busy day. I had some components to collect from my laser cutter and I had designed a saw table for my little bandsaw which they cut for me at the same time out of some 5 mm plate. It worked out awesome! Here is what I got back

well actually I got two of them cut, one for me and one for Trumpy. We have different model bandsaws from H&F but worked out that this will fit his as well.

All I had to do was to countersink the laser cut holes and we have a goer!

I think this will be an awesome mod to the saw and should fit any 4" or 5" bandsaw. The table is as sturdy as and does not need any braces. I think it could benefit from using some normal M6 countersunk machine screws to mount it with as the factory screws have a non standard countersink angle but they work fine.

Anyway, this was the first time I have designed a part and handed off a digital file for cutting. Previously, I have given them hand sketches which they then convert to CAD for me.

Also today was the first official day of H&F's 3 day sale and despite my best intentions, I could not help myself and called in on the way to work and picked up a Vertex 6" rotary table and matching chuck plus a few other pieces while they were discounted by around 20% Unfortunately, their linisher attachments were not discounted so you won't see any fancy finishes on my projects.

I will post up an update after I get the table cleaned up and mounted on my mill.

My wish list is getting shorter, nothing that another \$500 or more won't fix and then I might start thinking about DRO's.
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RodW
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vehiclemods.net.au

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03-14-2013, 02:20 PM   #90
gus

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Hi Rod,

Welcome to the "QCTP TOOL HOLDER COLLECTOR CLUB". Looks like you beat me in numbers of tool holders.

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(Jack of all Trades and Master of None)

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