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Old 09-15-2015, 12:44 AM   #1
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Default Stuart progress in the making

Hi all. Been a while since i was on here. Anyway i just started on my new Stuart progress today. I don't own a mill so this will be a challenge, although the Stuart website says it can be done with just a lathe. This will be my first engine made from castings. Any advice is great. Thanks


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Old 09-15-2015, 12:55 AM   #2
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Just some pics. All i have done so far is face the base and bottom of the frame. I was surprised at how easy the cast iron machined. Also is there any drawings for this engine? The book that came with it isnt very detailed.


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Old 09-15-2015, 05:13 AM   #3
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No mill? Face plate and 4 jaw! One can be very creative when one needs
to. Looking forward to further posts on your progress! Have you checked
the Stuart web site to see if you can get just the drawings?

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Old 09-16-2015, 12:24 PM   #4
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Now badly addicted to Petrol Engines. Planned to DIY Stuart Steam Engines as they remind me of the steam engines running a nearby sawmill. Will be following your post.
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Old 09-20-2015, 11:17 PM   #5
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Well I finished the cylinder today. Didn't turn out quite as good as I hoped, as one of the steam vents when all the way through. I think I should work though, if not I will fill the bad part with jb weld. Also worked on the frame a bit
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Old 12-03-2015, 06:11 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucas1997 View Post
Well I finished the cylinder today. Didn't turn out quite as good as I hoped, as one of the steam vents when all the way through. I think I should work though, if not I will fill the bad part with jb weld. Also worked on the frame a bit
JB weld not good idea...

Use Degussa Brazetec 4003 to fill up all hole who is fault located and drilled.
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Old 12-03-2015, 12:30 PM   #7
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Brazetec 4003 has a large cadmium content and I would never recommend it for any home use , It may even be banned in Europe although I can't be sure without checking.
If you need to fill a mis drilled hole in a copper alloy casting use a scrap of brass rod that is a sliding fit in the hole and silver braze (hard solder) with a non cadmium silver solder.
note; some solders may be advertised as "silver solder" but contain only a very small amount of silver and are really soft solder , do not confuse these with hard solder.
They may be great for soldering your speaker connections but not for this repair.
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Old 04-08-2017, 04:01 AM   #8
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Lucas, I hope you get around to completing this engine. I for one am looking forward to it.
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Old 04-16-2017, 01:51 PM   #9
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Hi Lucas; have just completed this model myself last month, interesting model to build. I found that there was a few chilled spots on the base & the drawing/booklet is confusing as it includes other versions too. A little tip ... save your iron filings, & brass filings into little tins then your can use JB weld / metal epoxy resin bonded with parent material for extra strength, & ends up the same colour.

A few pics of mine..
Attached Thumbnails
S10 OH basic parts.jpg   S10 OH Flywheel machining..jpg   S10 OH partial assembly (1).jpg   S10H Cyl.port recess machining (2).jpg   S10H drill & tap (1).jpg  

S10H trial assembly (1).jpg   Stuart S10 Assembly on base (1).jpg   20170123_170025.jpg  
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Old 04-16-2017, 10:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucas1997 View Post
Hi all. Been a while since i was on here. Anyway i just started on my new Stuart progress today. I don't own a mill so this will be a challenge, although the Stuart website says it can be done with just a lathe. This will be my first engine made from castings. Any advice is great. Thanks
You can do light milling in the lathe with a milling attachment. What size lathe are you using.?


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