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Old Yesterday, 02:12 AM   #31
bouch's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Lunenburg, MA
Posts: 55
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With the crosshead guides done and the cylinder machining done, Its time to do the first "test assembly".

Back when I first started building the engine, I machined the flywheel, crankshaft, the bearing blocks for the crankshaft, and the outer bearing support block (previously only seen in the initial posting). All I needed to do was make the studs for the connecting rod bearing blocks, which was fairly trivial.

Now its loosely bolted together, only a few studs for each part. The cylinder heads are on, the piston is in the cylinder, and I've bolted the steam chest to the cylinder. My goal was to get to this point by the February 17th NEMES show in Waltham, MA, so I'm happy about reaching this point. I left the steam chest cover off so people looking at the engine can see the valve porting.

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Name:	Barker 12a - Assembled Engine 1.jpg
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Name:	Barker 12b - Assembled Engine 2.jpg
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For scale, the flywheel is 10 1/2" diameter, the entire aluminum display base is 25 1/2 x 13 1/2, and the B&M frieght car sitting in the background is an O scale model.

I've also started working on the crosshead, I'm now hoping to have this in reasonable shape by the show. If you jump back to post #16, you can see the engine I'm patterning the crosshead after, and the initial 2D drawing. Since then, I've made a few small modifications, but you'll get the basic idea.

First step was to turn down the round end which screws to the piston rod. I used my shaper to remove a good chunk of the metal, I didn't want to deal with a huge interrupted cut on the lathe, trimmed about 1/2" off each side about 9/16 deep from the end.

Then I centered the piece in the 4-jaw, finding the center with my "Kozo style" center wobbler tool. See to see what I'm talking about (I call it Kozo style since the first time I saw one was in Kozo Hiraoka's articles in Live Steam, probably the Heisler) After turning to dimension, drilling and tapping for the piston rod, here's what I had.

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Name:	Barker 12e - Crosshead 1.jpg
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I then laid out the remaining holes and center punched all of them. The 6 holes on the outside edges are for oil cups and takeup screws to adjust the crosshead on the crosshead guides. The 10 in the center are for holes to make it easier to cut out where the connecting rod goes. The full slot is marked out as well. Not visible are two locations for set screws to lock the connecting rod pin in position, so it doesn't rotate in the crosshead. Not marked out are the horizontal slots in the sides.

The first hole I drilled was the horizontal one that the connecting rod pin goes in, you can see this in this photos

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Name:	Barker 12f - Crosshead 2.jpg
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The next step will be to drill and clean out the center. I'll use my shaper for this, not a mill.

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