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Old 10-13-2017, 10:27 AM   #31
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You are quite right F,

I have at least a dozen tooling projects that need doing before I can even consider making any new engines, some can quickly be made, others are projects. I am a sucker for good tooling, but won't make or buy them unless they will get used a fair amount. The first and major one is fitting a new motor and VFD to my lathe, but because I am limited to lifting only a couple of kilos at this time, that has to be held in abeyance. Once I can get to do it, then that gives me a clear run to start the others (as long as nothing else goes wrong).

Keep up the good work.


John


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Old 10-13-2017, 11:27 AM   #32
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Thanks for the info Frazer, quite right on the mounting. Also John for the pics showing setup.

I had a look on RDG website and currently they are selling keats for less than 30 This is surely less than the cost of materials for the cast iron.
https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/...PLATE-688.html

If I can muster the cash up, starting a much better paid job Monday, before they sell out, I'll buy one.

Frazer at mine you said about the faceplate needing to be skimmed each time it's mounted on the spindle. Does this need to be done every time it's mounted or just once, (just for future reference)


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Old 10-13-2017, 01:48 PM   #33
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Don't worry Jon, I bought mine from RDG many moons ago, so I don't think they will sell out and day now.

With reference to skimming you faceplate.

Using a DTI, check for runout on the face, if more than a thou, skim across it. It only needs to be skimmed very rarely, check with the DTI before using and only skim if necessary. Faceplates can be classed as sacrificial tooling because the skimming takes a bit off each time, but not to worry, expect to get maybe 10 to 20 years out of one.

Because you lathe doesn't have powered cross feed it can be a bit of a chore to keep a very smooth feed all across the face. My lathe takes over half an hour to cut all the way across using the slowest cross feed setting I have, but it gives a very good and accurate finish, as can be seen on the photos above.

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Old 10-13-2017, 02:19 PM   #34
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I agree with John but there is a doubt that the spindle is parallel with the ways.

Therefore, I'd put three sacrificial buttons, in line, one in the middle and the others at the extremes of the perimeter - and get the spindle correct before losing any precious 'meat' from the faceplate.

Don't ask how I learned that

N
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Old 10-13-2017, 07:04 PM   #35
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Hi Norm, that was one thing Frazer checked, and at most there is a 1thou run out, but it doesn't look like there's even that. The Lathe was levelled too so it's running within 1thou on both counts.

John the faceplate could be as old as the lathe, Frazer said it's a sacrificial tool as it was to be skimmed, your faceplate is what prompted me to ask the question. Mine looks like it's never been skimmed at all so will have to do at least one skim, so I'll remember to take my time to feed the crosslide.
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Old 10-13-2017, 07:09 PM   #36
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Hi John, Iv been mulling this wee chuck thing over all day whilst trying to find a slight bind on the latest engine
Although its a wonderful bit of kit I dont think I would use it enough so you are right in that respect yep the light came on
But theres always a but I have a spare catch plate and one of the keets plates for 25 could be keyed onto it
I will start a thread so I dont intrude here any longer.
Jon that face plate desperately needs a skim its like a warped disc. Norm is talking about the headstock been parallel inline with the bed not between centres
Sorry to have taken the thread of track
keep well
cheers
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Old 10-13-2017, 08:07 PM   #37
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It's Friday the 13th and it's the October one. It's a bit-well- spooky as I 've had me Knight Templar and I've had a black dog in my garden. Whatever next? The Gift as we hill people know but rarely admit.

Well, Jon, on this day of days, I'd do precisely what I suggest.

Thinking about Frazer and catchplates, I have two as well and one is faced with a 4mm backplate and the undrilled cast iron faceplate- one of three is a rotary hone and has diamond paste( green syringe) to fine hone lathe tools.

I've been soldering- the wiring in my new shed and been faffing about with my AVO looking for a fault- it was in a NEW metal clad switch- strange French expletives. OK, I bought the wrong solder which was for water supplies and I've swapped back to lead/tin.

But 'somewhere' I read that this unwanted lead free stuff is almost pure tin. So I can make proper tinned bearings.

Friday the 13th is turning out rather better than it started

Ah well?

N
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Old 10-13-2017, 10:38 PM   #38
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I have never skimmed a faceplate yet over many,many years.If its within a thou then leave it. I for one would not call a faceplt sacrificial.Bad damage or wear
yes then i would skim it.Dont forget that if the lathe is old and worn then any
discrepancies in the cross slide will show up on the faceplt.You are trying to do too much,too soon with an old lathe.As Norm said get the obvious things right
first
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Old 10-14-2017, 03:10 AM   #39
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I get a bit concerned about things. As Baz so rightly says, you must get your lathe to perform as best as it is able- and then, and only then do you play about with adding the nice but not essential stuff.

You raised a PM about re- metalling bearings and for others too, might I point out that it is highly doubtful that your lathe will bore sufficiently accurately to replace/refurbish the existing somewhat ropey old bearings.

Before you romp off to RDG to buy a Keats, you would be better served to buy some measuring kit like a decent dial gauge and correct errors as best you can. I've suggested that you check the alignment of your spindle- as it stands by putting three steel or brass or whatever buttons on the faceplate- and see by machining that you can lay a ruler across all three points- and that ALL three buttons can be touched. It's not rocket science- it's dead simple and you will know one thing for definite.

With a clock gauge and stand, you can check just how alignments are- whether they are fine or 'wonder off into space'

Again, let me pontificate if I must and tell you that a single point boring bar will not necessarily bore a parallel hole- if the lathe is out of alignment. Using an in line boring bar WILL bore PARALLEL regardless of the lathe alignment. No guarantee of what diameter it will be but it will be PARALLEL. Once you have a capability of producing 'shell bearings' you can solder two bits of metal together and turn the outside to the dimension of the exterior of the spindle housing and bore to your unknown spindle diameter. Then you cut the shell bearings and fit them.

But you have to have a dial gauge and a decent mike and NOT I repeat a bloody Vernier of unknown provenance.

Above all do remember that hundreds and millions of people have got lathes and machine tools right before you came along.
There is nothing new to discover- you simply follow the herd-- and BE HAPPY
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Old 11-07-2017, 09:22 PM   #40
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OK.. this is how this issue was somewhat solved. I got a new 4-jaw self centering HBM Chuck from RDG Tools. I also bought a MT4 alignment test bar to check the spindle. It was within 0,04mm at the spindle and about 0,07 at the end. Not all that bad I believe.
I dismantled the new HBM chuck right the way to clean it up and have a look. It looks slightly better than the original chuck. It has bolt pattern for both 3 and 4 bolts. Put it on to the lathe and grabbed the new test bar with it. Actually slightly better than just the test bar. Especially at the end that did not show any more out of round than at the spindle end, about 0,03-0,07mm.
Over all not much better than the old chuck, but when working with it I noticed that any work I put in there seemed to run more true. I could even take the work out and put it in without substantial run out. It is absolutely easier to get a more precise grip on the work. I also ordered two sets of soft jaws for it, but I haven't figured out how to use them yet.


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