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Old 10-12-2017, 06:24 PM   #41
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I'm going to ask what I think will turn out to be an obvious answer.

On the quartering for the wheels, I can see the two pieces look the same height, is this correct? If so how do you determine the height of them is it half the radius of the wheel, to the outer flange?


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Old 10-12-2017, 09:53 PM   #42
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Its simple trig. You know the wheel height above the datum and the radius of the crank at 45o to it. simple 45o triangle has side in proportion 1-1-root2
so you can calculate the height of the crank centre - half dia and that gives a height in this case 1.372.So 2 spacers of that size acting like a sine bar posns
the wheels each at 45o


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Old 10-16-2017, 09:27 PM   #43
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Default Great club loco

Simplex was my first engine and is now 28 years old, admittedly spending the middle 20 years in its storage box. Now running regularly again.
Would recommend you fit a pole reverser rather than the screw type as designed, much more user friendly and more prototypical for a shunter.
I also changed the regulator to a disc-in-tube type, far better than the screw type. If I was doing it now, I would also face the disc with ptfe.
One mod I might get round to is to fit a smaller capacity axle pump, I find that the bypass has to be fairly well open most of the time.
Another useful addition was to have a level gauge fitted to the rear of the LH side tank where it projects into the cab, you have a constant indication of remaining water.
Search "Simplex" in Engines to see mine.
Good luck with yours.

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Old 10-16-2017, 10:05 PM   #44
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Default Fixings and fastenings

Bazmak

Possibly, you're a firm supporter of Australian businesses: if so, then read no further....hmmm....
BA fasteners can be had, of course, at a price. Small fasteners generally can also be had, again, at a price, or I should say markup.
I've bought loads of small socket-head capscrews on Ebay, out of China, from a mob called Junter Hardware. I've got 'em down to 1.4 and 1.6mm., in a variety of lengths. I also bought some 2mm hex head screws while in Hong Kong some time ago and it wasn't a matter of the supplier pondering or scratching his head, it was very much "Certainly, sir. How many thousand would you like?". I've got nylock nuts at 1.6mm and round-head Phillips screws down to 0.8mm and while round heads mightn't be very useful on a live steamer, it's indicative of what's out there. All in stainless steel.
Hobson's - not sure whether they're Sydney or Melbourne, will also do 3mm hex heads in stainless, at a reasonable price. I'm in Sydney and one of the better nut and bolt suppliers has proved to be Raneve in Riverstone.
I've pretty much moved completely away from BA and any of the other 'imperials' and gone entirely to metric. I've 'replaced' British Standard Brass (26tpi) with 1mm pitch metric tackle and I've got a good suite of taps and dies, at that pitch, from 6mm to 38mm. Taps at 38mm are pretty hefty items and freight/postage can be an issue, but is, more often than not, subsidised out of China by you know who and is often free.
Unethical? Certainly. Effective? You betcha.
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Old 10-16-2017, 10:18 PM   #45
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thank you pendlesteamer for your informative post.Although i have a love of steam trains from my youth and know of the basic workings i am not very
knowledgeable and am just playing really to keep meep me occupied,whether i get get to steaming stage or just running on air i just dont know.Glad you are following this thread,any help and advice would be greatly appreciated
Thank you Wazrus on your info on fasteners.I am basially using a mix of what i can get hold of and have taps and dies etc.I make revamp fixing to suit looks etc as i get further on
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Old 10-16-2017, 10:27 PM   #46
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Made and fitted a few more bits.Not in any sequence but what i have in matl to hand and what can be finished and fitted.Every time i pickup the unit from one day to the next it seems stiifer.So i made a couple of knobs to fit the trailing axles and help to turn over the wheels and rods as i make and fit.This way
by adding items you get a feel for where things are binding.Also noted that
one of the crankpins is rotating.Light press fit was too light as i was worried about cracking the wheel castings.Lots of things to go back on and rectify/improve at the next strip down.Cylinders just arrived so starting them nextClick image for larger version

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Old 10-16-2017, 10:52 PM   #47
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Default Live steamer bits and pieces

Pendlesteamer's thoughts on regulators are interesting. Personally, I've used a poppet type regulator in a Sweet Pea -as per the words and music - and my next 'build' is a freelance job based on bits pinched from various designs.
Like Bazmak, I've had difficulty sourcing much of the specified material here in Oz, such that my wheels are all flame-cut from 20mm black bar. The wheels are quartered using parallel keyways. Frames are fettled from 76x12mm black bar and cylinders are from my own patterns, cast by a local foundry. Sweet Pea used steel wheels also, but a lot of machining produced counterweights etc., so much machining that my next loco, the freelancer, is an outside frame type, so the wheels aren't really 'on show' and as such, are just plain MS discs.
I'm a little surprised to see cast iron wheels without tyres??
Freelance has both twin pumps and will have an injector as well. Belt and braces! Too much water is a good thing....In fact, there are two pumps.
Freelancer is the biggest lump of steaming metal which I reckoned might stably ride 5 inch rails and is more like a mid-sized 7-1/4 incher than a 5. Haven't finished the boiler yet, but it'll be LP gas fired. Barrel is rolled by yours truly out of 4mm copper plate, as 170mm-odd copper tube is a bit hard to source. 5 inch Sweet Pea (named Lathyrus: freelance is Lathyrus Major) used 4mm copper boiler also to the words and music, but not very satisfactory words or music, to the extent I've scrapped it in favour of an LPG specific idea. All to AMBSC copper code.
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Old 10-17-2017, 12:47 AM   #48
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For Pendlesteamer and Bazmak
Attached - I think - are a few pikkies of The scrapped boiler from Sweet Pea (Lathyrus), beside the new boiler - or at least its barrel - for Lathyrus Major. There are also some pix of the chassis, no rods or valve gear. Valve gear will be Walshcaerts', a design pinched from Reeves' Aquila. I bought the plans for just the valve gear, as there didn't seem much point in re-inventing the gear. There's a strange-looking blue assembly at the rear of the chassis: this is an hydraulic brake. It's an external-contracting type, with friction material bearing onto an axle-mounted drum. With past experience of trying to stop a train with six hefty adults on board, something better than the Sweet Pea lashup or two size 10's buried in the gravel, had to be done. It, like most other bits, are works in progress. I've used twin axle-mounted boiler feed/transfer pumps and these don't use the usual bronze eccentrics, but have very narrow, sealed ball bearings instead. the balls need more space, which reduced the effective eccentric throw. To remedy the short stroke, I've used a 1:3 linkage, so the pump drives look a bit complicated in the pix. No apologies for the kaleidoscopic colour scheme. The colours are what I had available and anything looks better than rusty metal.
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Old 10-17-2017, 07:14 PM   #49
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Would recommend you don't try and rely on loco brakes when passenger hauling, you need brakes on the riding trucks. Locos would tend to lock up and just slide. Our club passenger trucks have a mechanically operated disc brake on each bogie, if you have 8 to 12 passengers at up to 10mph you need serious brakes to dissipate that energy.
Cast iron wheels without tyres are probably 90% of our clubs locos. For an engine running say a couple of hours a week, wear is not an issue. Steel tyres have slightly better traction and I have put tyres on the drivers of my Midland Single because of that.
My thoughts re feed pumps is to have the loco as efficient as possible. Pumping water and discharging a high proportion through the bypass is wasting energy. I would like a pump that only just gains on boiler consumption with bypass shut. Top up when stationary or when required is by injector.
One "experiment" I tried on my Simplex was to have the axle pump discharging through a double coil of copper tube wound inside the smokebox wrapper before going to the boiler check valve. It does warm the feed slightly, but not sure if it makes much difference to efficiency.

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Old 10-17-2017, 10:06 PM   #50
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Hi Pendlesteamer, your first name might be easier.Where are you from in Lancashire ? I too have thought about keying the wheels to the axle but if they are not correct the first time your stuffed.It would overcome the problem of the wheels twisting out of position when quartering and pressing on and of course the not quite correct press fit.But how many times would you have to take them apart ? Thought about getting them right then fitting a small grub screw from the front half and half on wheel and axle, but it wont look right
Your thoughts would be appreciated Regards Barry


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