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Old 12-02-2016, 01:19 AM   #51
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Twenty two holes later - 18 of 'em tapped to 2-56. Now I need to drill holes for the 4 cylinder end covers.ImageUploadedByModel Engines1480641530.810947.jpg


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Old 12-02-2016, 09:42 PM   #52
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Covers mounted and done with tapping 2-56 holes for awhile I hope. Has anyone used a tapping head? Do they work and can you tap tiny little holes like these with one?
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The lower covers get longer screws that will hold the cross head guides and piston rod seal. I'll get those sized up when those parts are done.
Pete


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Old 12-04-2016, 11:02 PM   #53
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I decided to cut up brass to make the cross head guides next. The pictures cover the process pretty well. It's a real pain to setup the rotary table 4 times. Both parts needed three holes 120 degrees apart and then cut outs needed to be cut on the bolt head side. I had to keep the part chucked and position the table in the vertical position to keep the cuts exactly at the same spots as the hole that was drilled. Then repeat for the second cross head.
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Old 12-04-2016, 11:16 PM   #54
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I went a few steps ahead to make some visual progress by making the brackets that hold the cylinders in place. Just some flat brass stock trimmed to size and then drilled the holes. I made the holes a little bigger to allow for tweaking the alignment of the cylinders slightly if needed. It wasn't much work but it made a big change in the look of the engine. Before I had a pile of parts, now it looks like I have an engine. Still tons of parts to make, all of them critical and tedious but this is fun to look at.
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Old 12-04-2016, 11:45 PM   #55
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Hi Pete,
Looking very good and making good progress.

George.
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Old 12-14-2016, 12:58 AM   #56
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The next parts i decided to make are the valve bodies and their spools. The drawings have been great, but the ports on these valves are really hard to understand. I had to go and have a look at the drawings that fcheslop linked me to earlier in the thread. Those drawings help a lot it's the same engine but the dimensions are all done for a larger version than I am building. Anyway after looking more closely I figured out I drilled one hole in the wrong position. I thought I lost a lot of work, but turns out I can drive on the mistake won't affect the running---whew !! I had to buy a 1.5mm end mill for the channels cut between the ports, that is a tiny bugger.
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Old 12-18-2016, 09:59 PM   #57
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Working on these little parts is tedious. The plans call for pins that have a threaded end. I went with 2-56 because that tap is in my pile of tools and it's close enough for the metric size called out in the drawings.
I used stainless for the pins and cut threads using the lathe. I don't have a die that size. Getting a good finish on these little parts was hard ( I didn't get what I wanted ), hopefully what I ended up with will work. ImageUploadedByModel Engines1482098066.237435.jpg
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Old 12-18-2016, 10:05 PM   #58
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Covers for the valves is up next. These were simple enough I just changed the decorative edges from a bevel shape to a cut with a bit of a radius. I didn't come up with good way to hold the cover consistently in order to cut the bevel. It was easier to run an endmill down the edge to get a dressed up edge on the cover.
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Old 12-27-2016, 05:12 PM   #59
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Pistons and the rods they are mounted on are next. I plan on running graphite tape for 'rings' in the grooves on the pistons, it has worked fine so far on my sternwheeler engines. The only trouble I ran into here was forming the threads on the stainless shafts. I tried using a die for the 4-40 threads, but I had poor results, the die seemed to tear the threads. I ended up cutting the threads on the lathe. ImageUploadedByModel Engines1482858390.599939.jpg
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Old 01-02-2017, 03:41 PM   #60
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Next on the list is the crosshead slider. Hardest part was the pin to connect it to the connecting rod. These parts a tiny !
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