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Old 08-21-2016, 03:49 PM   #71
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74hc595 is an ic shift reg that might let you lessen you pin footprint too.


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Old 08-21-2016, 03:56 PM   #72
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Scratch that this is prob a better option. It would knock it to two pins rx tx plus power and ground using i2c protocol.
https://www.adafruit.com/product/593

The other IC might be better for your lcd. Not sure how you wired it parallel or serial.


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Old 08-21-2016, 06:52 PM   #73
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I just set it up to mill an inside box in some plastic and adj the steps traveled until the meeting point leaves no lip. Shars table 13 tho backlash
Have some 1/2 x 10 acme and some derlin - could . . . . . .

Adafruit - Just got a couple of their LCD backpacks -PRODUCT ID: 292 They have jumpers so the address can be changed - Now can use two 20X4 LCD units [or more chained together] one at say 0x20 other at 0x21

Got her A/C all cold again - Has a peckerwood leak 'bout 12 oz loss over a year time - I can live with that . .

Need to actually make something - thinking of a tool grinding rest
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Old 08-21-2016, 06:59 PM   #74
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I have another thread on here where I made one of those for my harbor freight grinder. Ones that came on it were horrible. Check it out if you need ideas. I unsoldered the direct wires on the shield and soldered an 8 pin header. Should make experiments with filters a little easier.
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Old 08-22-2016, 12:00 AM   #75
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Ya - Played with one of those keypads using resistors as voltage drops - Too many moving parts for me. For Jog just using
void stepXPlus1() // Start + Up
{
stepsX = (stepsX + 16); // 16 = 0.001
if (stepsX <= 16)stepsX = 16; // Default
cursorOn(); // print to LCD
delay(jogdelay);
}
void stepXPlus10() // Start + Right
{
stepsX = (stepsX + 160); // 160 = 0.010
if (stepsX <= 16)stepsX = 16; // Default
cursorOn(); // Print to LCD
delay(jogdelay);
}
Start-Left, Start-Down increment to the minus . .

With the SNES can add a times 100 choice - But then as long as I hold the button(s) down it'll increment up quick enough . .
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Old 08-26-2016, 02:44 AM   #76
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Ok I think I have finally worked out the limit switch issue. Guess I'll be soldering up a more permanent solution this weekend. I'm pretty sure I had a loose joint on one of my grounds. I clipped an alligator clip to jump it and eureka. Loose grounds are tough to track down sometimes. I also was probably holding my mouth wrong. Now that that's sorted out I'll solder up the low pass filters, don't really think I need them but can't hurt either. It's just an rc filter anyways. Resister in series and and a 45uf cap to ground. About as simple as they get. I almost got ugly with it and busted out some transistors to make a more discriminate filter but it didn't come to that. need to mount the switches solidly too. Right now they are just hot glued in place. Works great for a semi strong hold that you can just rip off and redo at will. I love my hot glue gun for mock up stuff. It's been good to me for the last 18 years. Pretty sure I got my $8 out of it.
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Old 08-26-2016, 03:36 PM   #77
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Last Good to First Bad and therein lays the error . . . It's always after tossing out the wild and crazy, the simplest of things that cause the most grief . . .

Still have one limit switch that triggers on it's own, changed the switch - Nada - Other one hasn't faltered at all so can eliminate the code - Sitting here telling myself, I know what it is -I ran the wires into the Arduino header pins, I didn't solder them in just in case I might of had to change the pin layout - Nickie to donuts that switch wire probably got clipped too short and is just barely making contact . . .

Like the car - changed the cam - long as the bay had room to crawl around in, rerouted the wiring - Have an oil pressure switch to relay to fuel pump - oil pressure falls fuel pump shuts off -Tapped the switch to the +side of the coil - Not working - Worked before - - Last Good First Bad, first bad? Me . .

Have a MSD ignition [cap discharge] is no +Vcc at the coil - Duh - rerouted the ignition Vcc forgetting that the relay switch power has to come from it, not from the coil . . . Now to sneak in about 6 feet of 18 gauge from the MSD ignition power, which is now tucked away up front under the fender to the oil pressure sw laying over a motor all back together . . .

Ok - Real Question . end mill brands that won't chip out after a few passes - Ones that won't break the bank . .
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Old 08-26-2016, 05:17 PM   #78
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http://littlemachineshop.com/product...First=E&Last=E
if your close to California. I'm on the east coast US so everything I order takes a week to get here.

Or harbor freight. I think I got a set from HF a few years ago that I have been using for years.
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Old 08-26-2016, 05:41 PM   #79
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Got the limit switch thing fixed - - Soldered the wires to the board, let it cycle 20 times and no hiccups . . .

Have tried HF and Little Machine Shop products - All HSS, will try a harder material one and see how that works - If a 10 buck one will out last three 4 buck ones . . . Got one that I wish I knew who made it - rounded edges, it just won't give up the ghost - gives a nice [to me] finish . . .
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Old 08-26-2016, 09:20 PM   #80
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Got mine whipped today too. Got to get the switches mounted permanently now. Maybe tonight once it cools off a little. Check grizzly. Mine from HF are titanium coated - gold colored - so far I haven't aced one and have had them a few years. Check Amazon too. Kind of all over the place price wise. Had one goof when fixing the switches. Easy fix though. My arduino is a r3 which is great if I plug the Gshield in directly, which is how I have been using it. For the fix for the limit switches I decided to use an old Proto board I had...apparently it's old enough to be an r2 which is 2 pins shorter on the power bus. So when I sandwiched all the shields together no power to the motors. G shield has provisions to accommodate both but I had to cut a trace and solder in a jumper. No big deal but something that wasn't part of the original plan.


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