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Old 02-02-2015, 04:31 PM   #1
werowance
 
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Default brazing steel with bronze question

the other day I wanted a large cap nut and wanted it in copper, brass or bronze. not having the necessary tap to cut the threads I decided to take a coupler nut and turn the outside down just a bit and then bronze braze the outside of it. I have no problem sticking 2 pieces of steel together with bronze braze - usually just weld it though, however in this case I need a good thick coat of bronze around it. for the life of me I could not get a thick covering of the nut with bronze as the excess would just drip or flow off the nut. it would have been good if I were just trying to do a repair or stick 2 pieces together but not for the idea I had.

is there a trick to doing a thick layer of bronze on something? or is that pretty much just the way it is.

ended up just buying the tap the next day but I think it would be usefull to be able to build up a part with bronze then machine it back down.


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Old 02-02-2015, 07:04 PM   #2
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You need to put it on bit by bit,put on some braze let it cool and then put on some more other wise the piece gets too hot and it runs .
hope this is of help .
Vince


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Old 02-18-2015, 11:35 PM   #3
Nick Hulme
 
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You can do that easily with bronze wire and argon gas using a MIG ;-)
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Old 02-19-2015, 02:10 PM   #4
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You can do that easily with bronze wire and argon gas using a MIG ;-)
are you pulling my leg, they have bronze wire for a mig? I already have a mig and argon that I use for aluminum, never heard of bronze welding wire. if so I gotta get some because that would be perfect.
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Old 02-19-2015, 02:16 PM   #5
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What about silver solder ? I don't know if it would be strong enough for your application, and it is pricey $.
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Old 02-19-2015, 03:06 PM   #6
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What about silver solder ? I don't know if it would be strong enough for your application, and it is pricey $.
well, actually don't need it for that project now as I just bought the tap I needed and tapped the threads in brass. but I can see the usefulness of coating say a nut or part in bronze and cut it down to have a bronze wear surface. but on the same note, silver solder is also hard to "build up" in thickness for me as well.

sort of was looking at 1/4 inch thick or more for what I was going to do.
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Old 02-19-2015, 03:20 PM   #7
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Quote:
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they have bronze wire for a mig?
Several different copper based mig wires are available, including some silicon-bronze, for welding copper alloys to themselves and to steel. Handy stuff by the sounds of it. (I had no idea it was available either, I just Googled it cos I was curious )
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Old 02-19-2015, 04:03 PM   #8
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I didn't get the jest of what you were trying to do, that's what happens when you don't read the post well. The silicon- bronze wire sounds great. I have seen it used in Tig welding, the mig wire is new to me also.
Thanks
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Old 02-19-2015, 04:47 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by werowance View Post
are you pulling my leg, they have bronze wire for a mig? I already have a mig and argon that I use for aluminum, never heard of bronze welding wire. if so I gotta get some because that would be perfect.
About 30 years ago, I was doing a City and Guilds in Motor Vehicle Restoration after my retirement and used it then on my own Mig/Mag welder. It was being pushed for sale in restoring well rusted car bodies. Frankly, it was expensive, was too soft and deformed on the rollers in my own Mig and and consequently caused jams. I finished up using it with my Oxy/Acetylene set for fairly fine work.

That was a long time ago, and things might have changed since. Perhaps I was more of 'bottle set guy' and was set in my ways- even then.

As a suggestion, a spot welding attachment on a mig is an ideal and cheap way of building up wear or to improve fit.
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Old 02-19-2015, 10:28 PM   #10
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I keep bronze, copper, stainless, aluminium and mild steel wires in stock, with Argon and CO2 this allows some fairly unbelievable welds to be accomplished.
I was a Vauxhall dealership panel beater when MIG Brazing was introduced, it's specific purpose was to replace the (already outlawed for production and soon to be outlawed for repairs) process of tinning & leading roof to body-side panel joints to produce a corrosion resistant joint, especially important where these went into the windscreen mounting apertures.
I also worked in classic car restoration and can confirm that there is no good way to deal with corroded metalwork other than cutting it out and replacing it with new steel, it's actually easier and quicker than "Welding to lace" and also makes for a lasting repair,

- Nick


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