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Old 08-11-2014, 01:25 AM   #1
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Default Sieg X2 clone mill in UK, first impressions...

Just got hold of one of these.....



Sold by Machine Mart
Brand Clarke CMD300 3-axis mill

Was originally looking for a decent TIG welder and walked out the shop with the mill and a few other goodies. Smuggled the pallet (they delivered a pallet!! with all the tools I had acquired to the back door) into the shed and ripped open the box.

Removed the plywood base and did a squat thrust and hauled the beast onto my tiny workspace (the shed is about the length of a car and 2 foot wider... with 2 cars in it!!! ... just don't ask....)

Mill was covered in a clear plastic bag which was removed. Wow... whats this red stuff........ (I can see you all smiling at the noob)..... So started cleaning the table, WD40 and blue towels.... 4 hours later I had removed the X and Y axis and was cleaning everything.

Over the next few evenings I read all I could on these machines and the best threads were here which is why I joined so a shopping trip got me some grease, copper grease, engine oil, oil pump can and metal polish.

The backlash on the Y axis initially was about 1/2 turn of the dial so I decided to lap it.

This is what I did...

1 ) At this point the mill had the whole table removed showing the base. The column, motor etc is still in position with the Z-lock and Z-axis jib screw locked.
2 ) Cleaned the edges of the V's in the base with a stone to remove burrs and cleaned it
3 ) Then cleaned it again.
4 ) Y axis saddle (is it a saddle?) was also cleaned.
5 ) A small amount of polish was smeared across the base where the Y-saddle will contact it on the flat and angled surfaces.
6 ) Inserted jib strip adjusting screws with copper grease and slid in jib strip.
7 ) finger tightened jib adjusters, have to be careful here as the jib needs to be located by its indents. I tightened the middle then the 2 outers.
8 ) Press on the Y-saddle in the opposite direction to the axis of the jib adjusting screws. This ensures the saddle is seated correctly, and slowly jog the saddle forwards and back about 1 cm while looking at the jib strip, if the jib strip starts sliding out, stop and repeat step 7.
9 ) If the jib strip moves with the saddle (it stays in place!) the adjusters are finger tightened and locked. When locking be very careful not to let the screw rotate as this can lock the saddle very easily. Check movement after locking each adjuster.
10 ) With the jib secured check that there is no movement when grabbing the Y saddle and trying to push one side and pull the other, I initially had a small movement which required another 2 attempts at jib adjusting before I was happy.
11 ) Finally....I moved the saddle SLOWLY up the full length of travel noting any change in resistance, if anything it felt slightly slacker towards the column.
12 ) Moved the saddle up and down its travel 20 times and stopped to check side movement, effectively polishing the mating surfaces. Found a tiny amount of movement and so adjusted the jib strips. Note that the adjustments to the jib were very small increases (I would guess less than 5 degrees rotation of the adjuster).
13 ) After adjusting the jib and checking slowly the movement again another 40 'laps'.
14 ) Move the saddle toward you so that about 1 cm of the jib is showing.
15 ) Slacken off the jib adjusters
16 ) If you can hold the jib in place and slide out the saddle.
17 ) You will see where the polish has done its job, now clean everything....and clean it again.
18 ) I repeated this lapping (steps 1-17) 2 more times

This produces about 25% polished surface on the base and saddle, do not lap any more than this or oil will not be retained in the slideways.

Then reassembled the Y-axis taking care to really clean the leadscrew and nut. Coated the whole length of the leadscrew with coper grease and also the sides of the captive nut. positioned the nut and wound the leadscrew through. I greased the ways and assembled the saddle with the jib screw (amazing how quick you get when you have done it about 15 times already).

I then attached the end plate and wheel. I found that the leadscrew nut was best 'secured' when it was closest to the end plate and had about 1/4 turn backlash.

I then slowly tightened the wheel nut, locked it (as with the jib adjusters don't let the inner nut move when locking it with the other nut) and moved the saddle up and down checking for any rocking movement of the saddle and force required to turn the handle which was quite small. As I experimented with tightening the wheel nut I noticed the backlash reducing so took it to a point where I had zero backlash. I used a DTI to check and I did get ZERO backlash. The force required to turn the wheel had increased but was not excessive.

Then did the same with the X-axis......

At this point in time I have removed the column and am about to start the lapping process on the Z-axis.

Do you want photos of the process? It really has made a HUGE difference to the feel of the slides.

The first mod will be this.....



...to bury the hatchet on the column flex....now what if I filled this with epoxy crete....

...then a belt drive and probably CNC.

I might even start making chips.....

Andy


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Old 08-17-2014, 02:52 PM   #2
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Solid base should be with me next week found a UK supplier but they were out of stock so ordered it from littlemachineshop for $400 which includes fed ex express delivery 3 working days they say (report back on Thursday with hopefully some tramming of the spindle on the new base).

Have taken some photos of the z-axis lapping process (off into the shed in a minute and will upload the pics tonight) and have found the backlash to be horrific on the z-axis.

There are 3 areas where this is caused

1) The rack and pinion. I have read that someone shimmed the rack with some success to tighten the engagement with the pinion gear but the backlash did not entirely disappear.
2) The worm gear. Some adjustment can be made by moving the worm gear plate to engage better but still more backlash.
3) finally the fine adjustment coupling to the worm gear is shocking, about a quarter turn on the adjuster. Could shim the couplings but.....

I am going to cnc the machine so the z-axis will be first and I have found a digital stepper motor....

Nema23 4Nm (566 oz in) High torque Stepper Motor 1.8 Deg, Dual shaft

Which will have more than enough grunt to drive the z-axis, and I will probably use these on the x and y axis also.

Is it overkill to use these motors? I have also sourced driver cards, ballscrews (with machined ends), PSU and motors here...

http://www.cnc4you.co.uk/

Will also order the belt drive tomorrow...

After 25 years its great to be getting greased up again....(pun intended).

Photos of z-axis lapping in 6 hours.

Andy


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Old 08-17-2014, 07:58 PM   #3
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About to start lapping after adjusting jib strip...


Z-axis after lapping...


The paint was falling off all over the head casting and I removed all loose paint with a stanley knife blade I will probably strip and repaint the casting.

Back together again...


A cleaned and checked vice was put on the table and I will be doing some major shed work so wanted to keep the wee man clean...


I then tested the electrics and run the motor up slowly letting it run in for a few minutes all was well. Slow minimum speed and smooth acceleration with jet engine spooling noises. Order the belt drive tomorrow. Also the spring to 'equalise' the mill head weight has been removed and wont be used.

Overall a nice small mill, it does have its downsides but I'm very happy with the purchase, just remember to buy some WD40, a roll of blue tissue (you will need it all!!) and about 20 hours to strip-clean-lap-reassemble.

Finally for today...an engine........well a bit of an engine....cleaned and bagged......


In the hope of getting ANY response from you guys..... Anybody know what it is?

Andy
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Old 08-17-2014, 08:12 PM   #4
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Hello . I have been through a similar process with a mill I bought for my father and have been very pleased with the overall improvement. Also working on a cnc conversion for him.

Regards Buchanan
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Old 08-17-2014, 09:07 PM   #5
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Enderly fuel injection (or Alcohol) system
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Old 08-20-2014, 09:54 AM   #6
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Solid base arrived today and a few other toys.... I'm in the shed


...canadian, fuel injection 4 x 48IDA Weber carbs...
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Old 08-20-2014, 10:10 AM   #7
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looking forward to seeing your modifications so please post sources for any handy parts you find here as I am all so in the uk, (sussex) and just picked up one of the variants out of the friday add. One of the motor gears has lost a tooth so have ordered a belt drive of ebay and then plan to do a upgrade on the base and on the back to stiffen it up by using some large steel box section like i have seen on another forum some were. Then maybe a cnc upgrade when i can find time and money but i may get the cnc fusion kit for that.

best regards charlie
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Old 08-20-2014, 09:03 PM   #8
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Thanks LittleMachineShop something arrived today...



Somewere in here there must be... ahhhh the red stuff...


I dont mind the grease better that than rust. Prompt delivery and packed very well.

Column and base.




There was some paint on the base where the column locates so a knife was used to scrape it off. I eventually use a blade (no orange holder) on its own to remove all paint.


Cleaned the base and column and assembled. At this point I just bolted down the column as I wanted to lap the y-axis.




Base before lap.


Here we go again....


Saddle after lap


I now have a mill in the colours of the Bahaman National Flag!!!!


I moved the y-axis as far as I could but with the thread fully in the nut...


And have this much y-axis travel to use...


I could also use the old base to almost double the y-axis travel I read that from Hossmachine. Jibs adjusted and my nuts captivated
I'm very pleased with it.


Belt drive ordered from ebay (not here yet) and tramming tomorrow...

Andy
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Old 08-21-2014, 02:22 PM   #9
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Very nice write up Doc. I recognized the Webers right away. Small block Chevy?
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Old 08-21-2014, 03:01 PM   #10
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going on this....







Andy


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