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Old 07-23-2014, 01:20 PM   #71
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Rod, I have ordered cheap bearings off eBay in the past, they were only small ones, but around 60cents each.

Paul.


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Old 07-23-2014, 10:22 PM   #72
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got back to the office today and my printer was there. brought it home. unpacked looks good. one of the adjusting nuts had popped off so had to reassemble that. and no power supply . am I surprised. NO. the listing said no accessories I guess the power supply is considered an accessory. so off to solid-doodle to order a new one.
and drop shipped the order to printed solid so there is filament everywhere on the floor. So will not have my filament til next week. Looks like no test prints this weekend.
the cost of a replacement sheet of Kapon form SD is $ 20 not going to do it. a 8 x 8 x1/4 borosilicate glass from McMaster Carr $25 I will probably go for it.

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Old 07-23-2014, 11:23 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swifty View Post
Rod, I have ordered cheap bearings off eBay in the past, they were only small ones, but around 60cents each.

Paul.
Paul, Thanks, in a lot of 10, this listing comes in at 26 cents delivered (for 625ZZ 5mm IDx 16mm OD x 5mm Wide)
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-PCS-Ru...bc11cd3&_uhb=1

I'll see how I go making the wheels


The dimensions are metric but they must have used imperial units hence the really odd dimensions. They have another design that adds a V slot on the flat of the wheel so it will run on a V rail as well as the slot but this one just rides in the V shaped channel which is what I want.

Here is the other one

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Old 07-24-2014, 12:42 AM   #74
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I will have to look up the soliddoodle printer. What nozzle size does it have, and does it have a heated build platform?
You are better off with the borosilicate glass. Just use elmers glue stick for a bonding layer with the color fabb. with abs you need to make yourelf some juice.
The first layer is the most important, if your printer isn't properly calibrated to get that first layer stuck you will have all kinds of problems.
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Old 07-24-2014, 10:31 AM   #75
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.4 m nozzle.
looks like I need to order the glass. yes yes heated platform.
Lookes like this unit a little used outline of what looks like nuts on the kaplon tape.
Tin
And thanks for the help.
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Old 07-24-2014, 02:07 PM   #76
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Tin, Matt @ printed solid said if your near by you could swing over and he would give you a sample pack of filament to get you started while waiting on your order. Hes only 15 minutes from my house.
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Old 07-24-2014, 02:26 PM   #77
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Just a small comment, i have much better adhesion to simple, cheap glass with simple water washable paper gluestick. I also bought an expensive borosilicate glass and it does not work so good. So before spending money, just buy simple windows glass. After printing, put glass in fridge for 2-3 minuttes and print will remove itself
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Old 07-24-2014, 10:28 PM   #78
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A1 have playing phone tag With Matt. We finally connected I work only a couple minutes from the DM bridge so will connect with him after work tomorrow.

HLS may try the window glass. but have the MC catalog number in pocket.
the power supply is on its way. One way or another should be pretty much together by Monday.
again thanks for the help and encouragement.
Tin
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Old 07-26-2014, 05:46 PM   #79
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OOOOH the wait.

Power supply will arive Monday. Argh. In the mean time decided to try the window glass and picked up binder clamps hair spray and stick glue as well leveled the bed and set the z limit to park the nozzle 0.060 inches from the bed plate per mats suggestion. A small roll of pla in hand. from Printed solid.
Downloaded a couple files from thiniverse.
Tin
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Old 07-26-2014, 11:34 PM   #80
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Tin, It must surely be frustrating. I have all but given up buying second hand tools on eBay because invariably there is always something wrong or misdescribed.

I guess I better stop posting about building on a shopping thread but this is what I achieved.



You can see I set the drawing up so the grooves could be cut with an SNMG 90 degree tool and then be parted off in exactly the same position after centre drilling.

After parting off, I held the parts in a collet chuck with a collet stop to cut the bearing seat. I found I had to seat the bearing before cutting the seat on opposite side as the stop was too small a diameter. I used a boring bar that came with my boring head to cut the seat as my lathe tooling was too big for this kind of work. The bearings were hard to get out, so I only cut seats in one wheel.

There were two problems I encountered with this approach.
1. The turned diameter was not constant.
2. Getting a reference point exact again after changing tools to part off.

So the wheels shown are probably good for drawer runners etc but maybe not for precision liner parts without shimming etc.

I had a bit of a play afterwards with the tool memories in my DRO and finally worked out how they worked. I think if I can get them sorted out, I would get more accurate and repeatable results by changing tools on the DRO, cutting one wheel at a time and making a custom back stop for the collet chuck that engaged with the outer edge of the wheel.

I will say the Acetal (Delrin) was nice to machine in comparison to the HDPE I usually use.


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