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Old 04-25-2014, 05:42 AM   #21
TimTaylor
 
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Tin,

What aonemarine said.......

I'm not familiar with the soliddoodle specifically. but with any 3D printer there are a couple things you need to do before you start printing - both should be covered in your printer instructions:

The first is leveling the build plate so that the gap to the nozzle is the same at all locations on the plate. You can do it with feeler gauges, or rig a dial indicator mount on the print head. It's the 3D printer equivalent of tramming a milling machine.

The second is to set the print head to build plate minimum gap.

Once these are done you're ready to print a calibration object and enter any adjustments following the directions for your specific printer.

Now it's time to print the fun stuff!

The first two steps don't take but a few minutes, and the 3rd is dependent on how long the calibration print takes.


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Old 04-25-2014, 10:08 AM   #22
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I have the SOlidoodle4 and think it is an excellent machine. I like the way it is buuit around a metal box frame instead of the jungle jim look of threaded rod. I also like the full enclosed box since temperature stability is helpful for print. I wonder how they are doing that, since Stratsys holds a patent on an enclosed space, as dumb as that sounds.

My machine arrive just a couple days before cabin fever, and now I am in Detroit for NAMES, so I have not really had much time with it- I have printed a couple things and I am happy with the surface finish- they still show some ribbing but I think they can be filled or smothed to make investment patterns.

I like the comment that this is still 'toddler stage' It will develop over time, deciding just when to jump in is hard.
I am to old to wait very long.


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Old 04-25-2014, 03:05 PM   #23
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Ron,

If you haven't already, check out the thingiverse.com site. There's some pretty interesting stuff there.

What print resolution are you using? The finer the resolution you use, the better the surface smoothness - the trade off is that it takes longer to print.

I'm in the early stages of designing a couple of scale model steam turbines. My plan is to make the patterns for the casings using the 3D printer and then sand cast them.
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Old 04-26-2014, 11:26 AM   #24
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Quote:
I like the comment that this is still 'toddler stage' It will develop over time, deciding just when to jump in is hard.
I am to old to wait very long.
Yep knowing when to jump where to jump ect.

I guess in a perfect world I would want to buy one learn how it works and build a better one.

and to buy a cheap one and throw a bunch of money in ? Makes more sense to get something decent.

I expect to tinker but at this point I think I want something that can make parts not something that is another project.


Eventbot.A possibility but need to dig to get the plan the info is there is a google sketup file . I can download a trial version of cubify design and make drawings of the individual parts from the stl files.

So do I buy one build one or both??


The casting thing is certainly a possible application . Years ago i set up a sandbox casting bench and built a couple flasks. I have a small gas forge I have used for smithing. . Weld up a couple small pipe crucibles and I can pour aluminum. And the printer can print patterns.

Thank you all for the input, and encouragement.
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Old 04-28-2014, 12:52 AM   #25
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More pondering and drooling . I am looking at the solid doodle 2G and the asterid hb middle grade. unit. The more I look at the asterid the more I like it.


They both have things I like and things to be improved upon. the question I am asking my self is what can I easily fix. and what would I have to live with.

the biggest downside of the sd is only one lead screw to lift the table so the table is only supported in the back. and the 6x6 build envelope is smaller than the other one.

The other question I ask is how big a print envelope do I need. 6X6 x6 would probably work but 8 x 8 x 8 gives more flexibility.
just for fun I ran some numbers. A 1 kilo 2.2 lb spool of ABS will print a cube just under 4". so if and it would never happen it would take 8 spools for a 8" solid cube and @ $30 a spool well you get the Idea.
But I know I can always print smaller. and since the printer stretcher has not been invented yet a little bigger is likely better.


Interesting seems like many of the hobby level 3-d printers are made with 3-D printed parts so if one starts by making spare parts there is no need to purchase them.

I have also noticed there is a big difference in the price of spare parts the spares list for the asterid is not long but the prices are very reasonable.

The
Asterid 1000HB 3D Printer definitely has room to improve tinker with. the good side is it is ready to print out of the box . 30 day money back guarantee. But the fixes are well fixable. it is an open design but not difficult to add cover panels . I would prefer easy access to the power supply and the computer controller board Likely not hard to move outside the box. or I could add a cover. The wires are out in the open but easily dressed up.

I have also been reading about the differences between ABS and PLA.


I know I am thinking out loud here. I am hoping my pondering , research and posting here helps others as well as my own decision making.

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Old 04-28-2014, 01:47 AM   #26
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Tin, I had thought about building my own printer. I sources out parts and prices, ordered a few bits and pieces, then just bought one as a kit instead. It to me over 30 hours to assemble my rostock, and a few weeks of learning the machine before I could print with the best of them. I just upgraded the stock hot end I had Ben using for the past 7 months to a new all metal hot end so I can try printing with nylon. It's taking some playing to get the new hot end figured out for the .1 mm layer height prints that I want for investment casting. If the nozzle plugs up one more time I'm going to pull someone's hair out!! Yep 3d printing in a nut shell... If your in the area sometime and want to stop by to bs about 3 d printing and see my printer just let me know when. Maybe Matt, my partner in crime will have time for us to drop in on him as well to see his printers, he has much more knowledge than I do when it comes to them. He has a makerbot replicator, an ultimaker,a robo3d, and a deltamaker. Maybe even one or two more I dont know of LOL.
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Old 05-25-2014, 12:40 AM   #27
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I am still pondering researching.
Trying to tuck some money aside.

I like the looks of the eventorbot. like many it is open source.
the info is there but much detail to be extracted.
Parts to be sourced etc.
Sain Smart has lots of package options for all the controls from about $ 90 for a basic controller to a full package for $300 with a smart controller cables steppers limit switches etc.

http://www.sainsmart.com/ramps-1-4-a...or-reprap.html
then I need linear bearings guide rod the extrude parts etc.
linear bearing can run from about a dollar a piece to $30 each and I could pay close to $80 for a power supply. or find one for $30
SO one needs to do a lot research just to buy right.

It seems like the original project leader and kick starter project is going nowhere no activity for about a year.

I am still looking hard at the plastic scribbler. $499- about 699 but is comes assembled and more or less plug and play . choices choices.
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Old 05-25-2014, 08:58 AM   #28
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Tin, might be more than you want to spend, but I liked this one
http://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2014/4/...-xt-3d-printer

I would have an email with contact details for the manufacturer. From memory the quote I got a few months ago was about USD $1800 delivered to Australia and has a big build envelope.

It seems a very well built and is a dual filament machine. This lets you use 2 different materials and you can buy a tank that disolves one of them which allows you to build supports for much more complex shapes by adding support structures that are disolved.
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Old 05-27-2014, 06:09 AM   #29
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Like you I've developed an interest in these machines but have yet to secure the funds and honestly I'm in need of other tools. So I've been collecting stuff to eventually just make one of my own design. Well one built out of the collection of parts I'm building up. Mechanically the machines are very simple so with access to machine shop equipment you can easily build something out of your imagination.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Tin Falcon View Post
There have been a fair amount of 3-d printers at some of the ME shows. And I have a friend that has done some amazing things w 3d printer. . He is a retired college instructor. I need to stop in I drive by his house daily. I probably need to ask more questions.



A 3-D printer is a tool. what you can do with it is only limited by imagination and the time and effort used to learn how to use it. what is the use of a mill or lathe in a hobby shop??
Actually that is mentioned in the context of anything CNC related. People just don't understand the flexibility of CNC in general. More interesting is the fact that 3D printing via methods other than extrusion are becoming very affordable and accessible. Patents running out help this by making these machines more widely available.
Quote:



IMHO 3-D printing is in the toddler stage. Past infancy but still in development.
At our end of the market that is certainly the case. At the other end of the market you have NASA printing rocket parts in metals. There is an incredible range of capabilities here.
Quote:



Apparently these things will make toys candy chocolate wax patterns etc.

If a 3-D printer can make parts to build a 3-d printer there is potential.

A lathe is touted for self replicating.



I am trying to decide if a 3-D printer is right for me. And which one .



Tin

Well honestly you probably won't know until you have had the machine for awhile. I've had a strong desire for a CNC router for some time too, it can be frustrating because you can't have both. Well at least not without blowing your budget.

As far as which one, the one you design and build yourself will likely be the most cost effective. It isn't impossible and can allow you to leverage stuff laying around. One thing to keep in mind is that you are not building a machine to cut anything (metal, plastic wood) thus there is no need for lots of mass. The axis also move relatively fast so mass control is important in that regard. This is also why uncommon building materials can often be used in the machines, Baltic birch ply for example is plenty stiff enough for a cheap 3D printer. Further the Reprap folks use plastic where no self respecting machine tool builder would have ten years ago. Keep in mind the application and alternatives begin to look far more feasible.

There is a lot of appeal to kits but for most people in these forums they are awfully expensive considering we already have most of the machining capability required. You look at many of the kits and it is like what is here that cost so much. So maybe a look at your scrap heap might inspire you to see some of that stuff as a printer. Most(many) of these machines are belt driven so a good portion of your linear motion hardware is pretty simple. In the end there are so many designs out there already that you have plenty of ideas to draw from.

Just an idea here, I just hate spending lots of money for very little. If DIY machine tools isn't your thing I can understand, but it is worth a thought. You might be surprised to find what you already have laying around that could go to a 3D printer.


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Old 07-03-2014, 10:47 PM   #30
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still pondering and saving money.
Still tying to decide if I scratch build or buy a pre built.
I need to also decid if if I need 1 head or two. I know the two headed monster allows for disolvable support.


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