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Old 10-04-2012, 08:42 AM   #1
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Default 6" Copper HRT Boiler Build (warning, long build and lots of pictures)

Hi everyone, I'm new to model steam engines, but have decided to make a boiler to power my P.M. Research 6 CI engine. I tried to buy a boiler to power my new engine but could not find such a beast, so decided to build one instead. At first it was going to be a vertical type boiler, but after reading K.N. Harris's book several times over I decided to go for the the horizontal type. The design is similar to K.N. Harris #1 boiler, but with a few changes, mainly to be heated by a converted Coleman gas burner putting out approximatly 10,000 BTU. At the moment I'm just in the stages of getting a lathe and milling machine, which will arrive next week, so I'm turning my motorbike shop into a steam shop. Anyway here's the first of many pictures:







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Old 10-04-2012, 06:48 PM   #2
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Good Luck in your new endeavor.


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Old 10-04-2012, 06:58 PM   #3
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Like your pics , especially you with the golden curls.

Could you add source of material (vendor) and specs.( nominal size and wall thickness), maybe even approx. cost of the component, please.
How about some background specs. and how you arrived at those parameters. Us old guys haven't been to school in a long time, and we need a gray matter jogger more often than naught.

Thanks and good luck on your project, I'm sure it will turn out just great.

Gene
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:24 PM   #4
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Where did you get the copper tube. Did you have to take out a second mortgage to pay for it.

Dave
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Old 10-05-2012, 07:37 AM   #5
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Wow. Mighty big copper tube. Must have cost an arm and a leg. Pulling out my chair to follow you on your journey. And yes we love pictures.

Vince
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:05 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by GYoung View Post
Like your pics , especially you with the golden curls.

Could you add source of material (vendor) and specs.( nominal size and wall thickness), maybe even approx. cost of the component, please.
How about some background specs. and how you arrived at those parameters. Us old guys haven't been to school in a long time, and we need a gray matter jogger more often than naught.

Thanks and good luck on your project, I'm sure it will turn out just great.

Gene
I bought this pipe from Ebay in the US and had it shipped to Hong Kong where I live as I could not obtain pipe thick enough for this job. The Pipe I purchased is Manufactured by Cambridge Lee Industries. The Tube is SD 6"X16" and is what's called L tube in the US. Outside diameter is is 6.125" and inside is 5.85", giving a wall of .140". The pipe passes the 8 times safety for this size of pipe by a good margin. The pipe is sold for 12.49 USD for inch. This boiler will give me about 950-1000 square inches of evaporative heating surface. The engine I'm using will require 200 sq. inches of heating surface, so I am over building it by a factor of 5 times capacity. The boiler is more than I need, but I did not want to limit myself to a small boiler incase I happen to add larger engines in the future. The exact math hasn't been finished on this design as it started in my head as a vertical boiler, but now has changed to a horizontal one. The construction will be rivets and silver soldered with Harris Dynaflow rated at 35000 PSI.
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:08 AM   #7
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Where did you get the copper tube. Did you have to take out a second mortgage to pay for it.

Dave

Yes it cost an arm and a leg, but safety is my main concern on this build

Harling

P.S. 12.89 USD per inch. Here's the guys link:http://www.ebay.com/itm/130442268667...84.m1439.l2649
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:57 AM   #8
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Thats a very low silver content solder you are using, generally boilers for steam engines would be using 45% plus and that is certainly the type of solder KN Harris would have been working with in his book not the 6% Dynaflow. The phosphor content is not good either. I would be looking at Safetysilv 45 or higher if you are using the Harris products. Keep the Dynaflow for aircon and refridgeration pipework

Also ensure that any rivited joints maintain a gap for the silver solder to flow into, you don't want to end up just caulking the joint with solder.

J
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Old 10-05-2012, 01:29 PM   #9
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May I recommend buying and reading " AMBSC Code Part 1 Issue 7--2001 Copper Boilers"
complied by the Australian Miniature Boiler Safety Committee to check on boiler design/fabrication/inspection/testing,pipe thickness,head thickness,stay rod diameter,brazing material,sockets etc etc.Safety valves must be sized for steam capacity.
Same book can be bought on line from "Ameng.com.au.

Silver Brazing is not an easy skill and takes time to master. Canned camping gas torch cannot deliver the heat required. With 50mm O.D. Boliers I brazed,I had to use two MappGas Torches to bring up to red heat before flux will run and silver rods melt and run.You may require a DIY brazing hearth to avoid burning up the kitchen table.I have not silver brazed 150mm O.D. Boilers. I would imagine six MappGas Torches required.
Tubal Cain's book on Soldering and Brazing is worth reading.

Gus used to manage a plant designing/fabricating/welding/testing/certifying air receivers.I certified welders/brazers too. Good Luck
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Old 10-05-2012, 03:21 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasonb View Post
Thats a very low silver content solder you are using, generally boilers for steam engines would be using 45% plus and that is certainly the type of solder KN Harris would have been working with in his book not the 6% Dynaflow. The phosphor content is not good either. I would be looking at Safetysilv 45 or higher if you are using the Harris products. Keep the Dynaflow for aircon and refridgeration pipework

Also ensure that any rivited joints maintain a gap for the silver solder to flow into, you don't want to end up just caulking the joint with solder.

J
Thanks, I'll have a look again at the different Harris products and see if I can get those in Hong Kong.


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