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Old 01-10-2017, 06:22 PM   #61
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I am probably wandering but actually there seems to be no difference between a drill and an end mill. All that varies is the angle of the pointy end. In an end mill it is probably minus 1degree whilst in a drill it can be 118 degree positive.

However, he says 'waving his wooden leg aloft' the angles remain at say 5 degrees and 15-20 degrees and - and the lips are -as Baron says' on' or as I have it 'just below centre line'

A lathe tool normally cuts with the cutting part - as I've said.

There isn't a fat lot between a end mill, slot drill or a twist drill - or a boring bar.

I proved this a long time ago by replacing a conventional boring bar bit with a slot drill and using a boring bar bit as a lathe tool.

Yes??

Norm


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Old 01-10-2017, 08:27 PM   #62
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Hi Norman,

I agree ! Essentially there is little difference. End mills and slot drills, as far as the tip is concerned are as you say -1 or 2 degrees with 10 to 15 degrees back rake, and depending upon whether they are centre cutting or not, one edge is offset. The flutes however are a different issue because the tool has to be not only rotated along its axis but has to be kept accurately positioned along the rotational axis of a cylindrical grinding wheel in order to sharpen them.

The rake behind the flute cutting edge is not a flat surface but is slighly hollow, in addition sharpening the flutes reduces the diameter a little, so you can no longer rely on the cutter width.


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Old 01-10-2017, 09:00 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
Hi Norman,


The rake behind the flute cutting edge is not a flat surface but is slighly hollow, in addition sharpening the flutes reduces the diameter a little, so you can no longer rely on the cutter width.
As with a conventional tap or reamer?

Having 'pronounced', I wonder whether this Acute thing will do reamers and such. It's hard enough without an air spindle on such things as Quorns, Stents and Clarksons.

Yes?

Norm
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Old 01-10-2017, 10:45 PM   #64
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In answer to your question Norman I have found reamers very easy to do
The only part to grind is the chamfered end,its very easy to do
and makes a big difference.As for grinding the flutes on end mills
then for most people its a no no without the dedicated
high quality grinder.Reamers again can be done if the od is
reduced to an accurate known dia.But the flutes don't do any cutting only polishing/honing ,its the front chamfered corner that does all the cutting
I have recently bought some cheap and nasty reamers from china
but they do work well and are ground with a long lead in which looks
odd but does work at centralizing the reamer.No good for blind holes
But when I remember the many tens of thousands of different tap,drills,reamers,plug gauges etc that my company stocked then its not possible for us home engineers to have 5% of that
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Old 01-11-2017, 06:19 AM   #65
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A little progress.Started making a dedicated fixture for twist drills
I like the dovetail slide rail so working from that I made a dovetail
slide block dedicated at 118o.I machine the er16 collet block down from 40mm sq to 30mm sq and milled a slot to accept it.Now to tidy a few loose ends
and work out an adjustable stop etc.It has become more stable now the tool height has been reduced
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Old 01-11-2017, 10:07 AM   #66
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Thx for the pictures , the wheels seem to be good quality .
I'll have a look on ebay .
For an average of 15$ there's little risk involved .

I have a clarkson t&c grinder , a very rare MKIII , and I'm hoping to build a fixture to sharpen carbide tipped saws . So I'm gonna need a cup wheel , and a "flat washer" shaped one .
Don't know the exact shape in english . Dish maybe ?

Pat
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Old 01-12-2017, 01:06 AM   #67
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https://youtu.be/5U9UBxjLpMo
The collet and block works well,HOWEVER after all the years when items can be LH or RH how
many times have we made them the wrong way. 50/50 I agree but its like the jam side of your
toast falling face down.I thought about lh and rh before starting the holder,decided it didn't apply
And carried on.Wrong.Thought I could solve it by changing the wheels around on the grinder and
turning the grinder around.OK till I started to sharpen a drill and realised the table would have to be
tilted up and you cant see the cutting edge.So when the hot weather has eased off and I get my
head into gear I will make another with a few changes to improve the existing.The brass stop is fitted at the front
but I would prefer it at the rear etc etc
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Old 01-12-2017, 12:04 PM   #68
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Hi Baz,

Just tilt the table down. You are going to clamp the tool holder and arrange for it to be moved in very small increments. So does it matter if you cant see the cutting edge.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist....1&d=1484222254

As you can see from the picture, this is how I did mine. of course being able to lift the toolholder off the table helps if you really need to look at the drill tip.
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Old 01-12-2017, 12:50 PM   #69
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I've been prattling on 'ad nauseum' or since Pontius was a pilot about a black felt tipped marker and a dental mirror.

From time to time, I also prattle on about microscopes. There should be a queue at Specsavers but probably people can't find the way to a branch.
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Old 01-12-2017, 09:54 PM   #70
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Hi Baron,i assume from your photo that the whole table slides side to side
on the grooved nylon wheels.I have also ordered an er 16 collet chuck
on a 16mm dia spindle which could slide in a housing rather than a collet block
and take me in the same direction as you.With regards to my problem I
have tried grinding with the table tilted up and I am not happy with it
I will make a new slide and beef it up slightly so I can fit a feed screw
alongside with the stop at the front and the knurled feedscrew to the rear
I am only playing about and that's half the fun for me.But looking at your photo
another avenue will be a sq block reamed 16dia and my new clollet chuck fitted
the fine adjustment can then be fitted to the 16 dia spindle.I would have
to fit a keyway to spindle to give a sliding fit and stop it revolving


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