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Old 02-27-2016, 06:01 PM   #31
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I know speedy Metals has information on their site that doesn't show up in their main menu, at least I can't find it. I was doing a search on machineability of A36 steel and a page from speedy Metals came up. When I tried to get there from their main page, I couldn't find a link.

Here is the main page:
http://www.speedymetals.com/default.aspx
Here is the material sheet:
http://www.speedymetals.com/information/Material29.html

I was looking for cast iron, but can't find it, that's why the search.
There must be other sheets, but I can't figure out how to find them.
Maybe they will send me the sheets, too.

There are links at the bottom of the materials page, but they take you to the material order page.

I spent more time on their site and each individual product page has a link to the material information sheet. I didn't see it because it doesn't look like a link. I should've seen it, though, because it says "click here".


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Old 02-27-2016, 06:21 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcostello View Post
First off I did not mean to insult You, I am sorry that came out that way. The reason it was an example was that a local supplier I usually use can many times beat online prices by a good bit, that's why I don't usually use Speedy Metals or Online metals.
I know.
You told me in post #24 and I said I believed that you didn't mean it in post #25. For me, it was over after #25. I'm not sure the last posts had anything to do with you, still not sure of the intention. All I want is a place where I can buy cast iron of known quality.

From what the other person said, you and I must be the only two people on earth that use local suppliers. I just can't find one here. Well, I can fine one, but the price is significantly higher.

I had no idea it was as hard to buy cast iron as it is.


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Old 02-27-2016, 06:44 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sssfox View Post
Here is the material sheet:
http://www.speedymetals.com/information/Material29.html

Maybe they will send me the sheets, too.
Those website links appear to be generic properties just to be helpful. What I'm talking about is the specs corresponding to the actual material you order. Now if they happen to reference a material meets SAE/AISA/ASTM ### and that alloy meets your requirements, then 99% of the issue is resolved. It doesn't really matter what mill they source from behind the scenes so long as it meets the reference number. That's why the 'standards' exist. Some may beg to differ & say there are still discernible differences between different suppliers of the same number, but splitting hairs now.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_steel_grades

I might be getting my Onlinemetals order mixed in with Speedy. Possibly they have a user check box option to include the spec sheets or not upon order (to save some paper if you don't care). In my last OLM order they include a wad regardless. This may or may not have to do with cross border shipping obligatory declaration which would not pertain to you.

All I'm trying to say is: they obviously have the detailed spec information because they package it with order. The trick is to get that in advance if you were so inclined or it was a decision maker. Perhaps an email or call to them would shed some light?
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Old 02-27-2016, 07:09 PM   #34
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I didn't see the check mark for providing material sheets, but I didn't get past my shopping cart in the checkout process. Since I wanted to use USPS, I had to go through emails to get the deal worked out and then called them to charge it.

If I don't get the sheets, I'll call and see if they can email them to me.
I would like to find out where it came from and I would definitely like to know more about the composition of cast iron.

I haven't machined much cast iron, but I do like the results, even if it is so dirty to work with.

Thanks for the info,
Steve Fox
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Old 02-28-2016, 01:30 AM   #35
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I really don't want to argue the issue, but you asked the reason for my post so I will explain.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcostello View Post
I was not belittleing You hence the smiley, You missed the humor.
Here is the explanation given for the supposed 'sleight'. Being that the price you had obtained was around 20 times higher than this member had quickly found online, he was simply saying have another look online. (In my opinion, nothing nefarious at all).

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Originally Posted by sssfox View Post
I don't think I missed anything.
If you are that good at Google, where can you get a better price, not just an example?
Here you completely refute his good intent, basically calling him out and saying he purposely meant to insult you. To be honest myself, the supposed sleight seems incredibly minor (I've never encountered someone defensive of their Google skills before) and to carry it on to this level is what prompted my response. More from the same post :

Quote:
Originally Posted by sssfox View Post
I do love the way people think they can say whatever they want and a smiley negates the negative connotation. When I was a kid, a guy hit me with a baseball bat and then said "it was a joke, can't you take a joke?". It's been more than 50 years and I still don't see the humor.

I'll take it at face value that you didn't mean it.

Oh yeah,
Carrying it further and stating anyone can say anything followed by a smiley and loosely equating the incident with an assault in your past, you then go back on your earlier statement "I don't think I missed anything" with a seeming acceptance of the explanation, immediately followed by one of your hated smileys to show this is not the case.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sssfox View Post
What set me off was mcostello insulting me and then putting an emoji next to it like that makes it OK.
I went back and reread my posts and didn't see anything that I would consider argumentative. I responded to his entry and he clearly misunderstood my response, so I clarified. If you or anyone else took that as argumentative, I apologize.
As I said, I don't think such a minor perceived sleight could even be called an insult but obviously you did. However, virtually slapping the man's hand away when an apology was offered, accusing him of bullying you, etc., in my view, was overstepping the mark.


Quote:
Originally Posted by sssfox View Post
I do have to ask, Cogsy, what were you trying to accomplish with your post?
I believe I've answered this, but if not, to call you out for being rude where it was completely unwarranted. That's it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sssfox View Post
You told me in post #24 and I said I believed that you didn't mean it in post #25. For me, it was over after #25. I'm not sure the last posts had anything to do with you, still not sure of the intention.
Here is the very crux of the matter, he offered you an apology (warranted or not), which you dismissed and derided, employing the very tactics against him that you thought he'd somehow used against you, yet you can't see that you were being argumentative or rude.

So that's my explanation. As I said, I don't want to argue, that's not what I come here for. I think I've clearly laid out my reasons and explained them clearly. I won't respond again, just to make sure we don't spiral into any sort of argument. I'll let you have the final word.

Finally, on the actual topic of the thread, I have a local supplier with a $50 minimum charge that I get cast iron bar for around $8 AUD/kg. Changed to USD that should be less than $6 I would think. Seems a comparable price level and would be what I'd be looking at getting it for, although for me the extra shipping cost (when it's reasonable) is something I can live with as almost everything I need to buy has to be shipped across the country or internationally.
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Old 02-28-2016, 03:01 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cogsy View Post
I really don't want to argue the issue, but you asked the reason for my post so I will explain.
The thing he missed was letting me know where he could find a better price, which he remedied.

As I have said to mcostello TWICE, I don't believe he meant any harm. Why you can't see that or don't understand it, I don't know. His humor is acceptable, but mine isn't? I don't get that either. It must have something to do with the language differences between us. It makes no difference what I say, you're going to take it the wrong way.

I still don't understand why you are so upset.
For someone who doesn't want to argue, you spend a lot of time typing about something that doesn't even concern you. I don't understand your need to defend someone else and attack me over something that even you say is incredibly minor. What have I ever done to you? I don't know you and we live on opposite sides of the world. Maybe you should just chill a little bit.

You have accused me of being rude, argumentative, dismissive and deriding as well pretty much said I can't do a decent Google search. I haven't accused you of anything. What have I ever done to you? I don't know you and we live on opposite sides of the world. Maybe you should just chill a little bit. I'm just trying to find a place to buy cast iron at a reasonable price and I prefer a local supplier, apparently as do you and mcostello.

So, did you find any locations in Florida where I could find a decent price?
Maybe you need to increase your Google Foo.
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Old 03-02-2016, 03:51 AM   #37
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With regards to getting cast iron for very cheap prices.
For more years than I care to remember I have been using scrap and donated mystery metal to make 99% of what I make. If I stand lumps of steel outside for about 6 months, what has not gone rusty, I class as stainless.
I would suggest you forget about barbell weights unless you are VERY lucky, they are made from left over dross at the end of day pours, so could contain almost anything ferrous. I have tried them, and failed miserably.
The same tends to go for US cast sash weights, again end of days pours and full of dross and hard bits, you will get through loads of tips trying to work this stuff, from what I can gather from people who have tried, success rate is about 1 in 10. The Victorian sash weights made in the UK (remember, well over 100 years old), for me is absolutely great, and have yet to fail to get large lengths of well seasoned cast iron out of them, but it does take technique.

What people haven't mentioned yet, and I wish I could get hold of another couple of slabs, are the old weights hung on the front of tractors to balance them out. I managed to get hold of one many years ago, about 24" x 12" x 3" thick. Absolutely wonderful stuff once you got rid of the outer skin. I would have thought there would have been thousands of these knocking about on the US prairies.

What you should be looking for is something of uniform thickness all over, otherwise where it is thin, it will be chilled and rock hard.
This even happens to machine tools.
When I faced off my faceplate before starting a new job (you do face it off before use don't you?), when it was finished being faced, you could see the different chrystaline structure in the metal where it was made with thicker rims and webs.
The thicker parts had a much finer structure than the thinner parts, which had cooled off quicker.
You can see the difference in chrystaline structure quite easily.




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Old 03-02-2016, 05:49 AM   #38
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John...you are a wealth of information ...thank you.....clem
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Old 03-02-2016, 03:38 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blogwitch View Post
With regards to getting cast iron for very cheap prices.
For more years than I care to remember I have been using scrap and donated mystery metal to make 99% of what I make. If I stand lumps of steel outside for about 6 months, what has not gone rusty, I class as stainless.
I would suggest you forget about barbell weights unless you are VERY lucky, they are made from left over dross at the end of day pours, so could contain almost anything ferrous. I have tried them, and failed miserably.
The same tends to go for US cast sash weights, again end of days pours and full of dross and hard bits, you will get through loads of tips trying to work this stuff, from what I can gather from people who have tried, success rate is about 1 in 10. The Victorian sash weights made in the UK (remember, well over 100 years old), for me is absolutely great, and have yet to fail to get large lengths of well seasoned cast iron out of them, but it does take technique.

What people haven't mentioned yet, and I wish I could get hold of another couple of slabs, are the old weights hung on the front of tractors to balance them out. I managed to get hold of one many years ago, about 24" x 12" x 3" thick. Absolutely wonderful stuff once you got rid of the outer skin. I would have thought there would have been thousands of these knocking about on the US prairies.
Having grown up in farm country there are a couple of explanation to the missing tractor weight problem.

First WW2 gave huge incentive for farmers to scrap anything metal laying around the farm without an immediate use. So this was one huge purging of the landscape of anything iron or steel.

Second after the war years you basically end up with two types of farmers. One see clutter as an abomination and another that sees clutter as something they will potentially need in the future. The guy that sees clutter also sees dollars and thus recycles everything.

Third even if the tractor the weight goes on is gone there are still lots of uses on a farm for dead weights.

Fourth, old tractors seldom die, you would be surprised by the number of really old but operational tractors that exist in the USA at the moment. Some are considered collectors items. Some still do the work they where designed for and some are simply there for the memories.
Quote:
What you should be looking for is something of uniform thickness all over, otherwise where it is thin, it will be chilled and rock hard.
This even happens to machine tools.
When I faced off my faceplate before starting a new job (you do face it off before use don't you?), when it was finished being faced, you could see the different chrystaline structure in the metal where it was made with thicker rims and webs.
The thicker parts had a much finer structure than the thinner parts, which had cooled off quicker.
You can see the difference in chrystaline structure quite easily.




John

The other thing with Tractor weights is that these are in fact a lot of mass as such you need a good amount of iron to pour just to make a few. These are seldom made a few at a time, so you need a large amount of iron to successfully pour the weights. Lastly these weights take a whole hell of a lot of abuse. As such I have to believe hat they do spend effort on controlling what type of cast iron is actually being poured. Weights that fall off a tractor are no good but it also makes the tractor builder look like a fool. So you take all these factors together and you will see that there is incentive to do a better job casting this iron.

There is one problem with these weights though, they are extremely heavy and thus hard to handle.
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Old 03-05-2016, 09:28 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldstar31 View Post
I've just returned from Aldi stores in Little England and next weeks offer is
1 x 10Kg or
2 x 5KG or
4 x 2.5KG

each set being 12.99

Norman
Last week end I did the shopping at our local Aldi and came back with a 10kg weight. I spent most of today removing the parts that didn't look like a Hardinge faceplate.

This particular weight had a few (3) small surface inclusions, but no more than many castings. From the finished surface, the chips and the tendency to work harden on light cuts, I'd say it isn't a true grey iron but is a 'semi-steel'. This is reasonable if it's made from a mixture of iron and steel scrap, It's messy like grey iron, but the chips are larger than one would normally expect. It was also very abrasive. I only realised after 6 hours that it turned better with a positive rake steel insert rather than a zero rake cast iron insert.

Original dimensions approx 10" diameter. Hub and rim 1.5" thick. Central web about 0.7" thick. That's enough to avoid chills in a normal sand mould.

Regards
Mark



Last edited by Mark Rand; 03-05-2016 at 09:32 PM.
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