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Old 05-03-2017, 05:47 PM   #51
Niels Abildgaard
 
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Hello Baz

Need Your postal adress.Tool angles look and are not correct but it works OK.Do not Gorilla the screw.
Brown swarf is to slow


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Old 05-04-2017, 01:27 AM   #52
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'Neigh Ho?' in Cantonese is a greeting like 'How are you going?'.

It's nice to see this level of friendliness in the forum.

You can simply reply 'Ho' which means I go OK.


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Old 05-05-2017, 04:52 AM   #53
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Default Minor mods

The lathe sits on 4 rubber feet on the same centres as the lathe bolt downholes
Bit disconcerting when ntightening things up of checking gibs for play
and the lathe wobbles about.Also I needed to raise nom 40mm so made
and fitted alum riser plts with a bigger footprint to the existing holes and under the tray, then refitted the feet at larger centres.Perfect height and much reduced wobble.I also chamfered a length of alum flat and carefully filed the bottom corner until the toolholders just click on .Screwed it to the wall and
room for further family.
To get the cross slide off you have to remove the back cover which is held with 4 no cap screws,so fitted long grub screws to the 2 no end holes as studs
and fitted 2 of my brass finger nuts Easy Peasy.Also fitted 2 additional cap screws to the cross slide gib which can act as further adjustment or cross slide lock. Simples. Stripped down the apron,debured refitted the dovetail etc
and made a 1.5mm thk alum cover to the traverse gears to keep grease in and swarfe out.Waiting for a new cast iron handwheel and some thrust bearings to finalise the apron .Feeling much better already.The lathe not me
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Old 05-05-2017, 07:54 AM   #54
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Many years ago a canadian improved his Myford.It carries a lesson.
ery cheap and effective

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist....t=15300&page=7
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Old 05-05-2017, 08:23 AM   #55
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Hi Baz,

I notice your tool holder on the wall behind your lathe.
I used to have mine hung similar to that, but very soon started to run out of storage space for them.

Have a look at this post, it shows a very easy way to gather them together in a more compressed state.

You would need to make for your size of holder, but well worth it in the long run.

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/inde...pic,873.0.html


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Old 05-06-2017, 05:07 AM   #56
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Default more mods

Thanks for posting John,if my family goes above a dozen I will give it try
Well I played about with gibbs again,made a couple of mods with some
machining,the lathe is starting to feel really good.Will keep improving as
I find more niggles.Next job is the improve the handwheels when new ones arrive from China.Meanwhile I made an accurate tool height gauge.Fed up
with measuring with a rule all the time.Works well set all my tool to centre
height and sharpened a few.Also didn't kike the 2 long cap screws holding the plastic cover on the end of the headstock.Also remember from the first lathe
chips traveling thru the spindle and dropping on the changegears so solved
both problems and got to make a couple more brass thumb
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Old 05-06-2017, 09:25 AM   #57
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I think that the use of a magnet on your tool height gauge is a useful thing. Unfortunately, my venture towards a Chinese/Far Eastern lathe has failed to materialise.

Having to revert to Plan B, there seems no reason not to add DRO's to the old Myford ML10- and press the relevant button to go from Imperial into Metric and Vicky verkie.

So I'm booked for a train ride to the Doncaster Show and what I had set aside for a birthday present for myself can be added to the little Myford instead.

My kids think that it's a great idea, too

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Old 05-06-2017, 10:03 AM   #58
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Hi Baz,

A couple of good ideas there, and I see you are using your knurler to the full, except that I personally hate magnets around my machinery except for picking up swarf, which they do with ease and are hard to eradicate completely.

I was given a brand new very expensive American optical centre dot finder, unfortunately the main block was a large magnet to allow it to stick to steel piece parts.
After the first use on steel sheet it was unusable afterwards because it attracted every tiny bit of swarf and corrosion within about 6" to it, including up the hole that the precision fitted sighting scope was to slide into, making it impossible to fit into the base without scratching onto tiny particles of steel that I just couldn't see to get them out. I managed to give it away to a chap that knew no better.

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Old 05-06-2017, 10:49 AM   #59
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Magnetising? Well, I went too an auction of clock and watch stuff. Came back home with a 4 professional demagnetiser thing.

Had the old Seiko Seamaster on it, son borrowed it for his Rolex( hum), did my late wife's carriage clock and apart from the workshop use, it is costing 'pennies' to do things. In fact, I'm into profit because son bought me a proper little wallet of watchmaking repair tools!

Now is time to get the back of the 'Rolex' off and see what is bugging it. After all it was all of 10 in the Ladies Market on one of my Hog Kong jaunts- Might be a fake

Not all playing with ancient machinery.

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Old 05-06-2017, 12:48 PM   #60
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Don't like magnets myself but you cant entirely get away from them
Dial indicators spring to mind.My 8" s/s digital vernier has become
magnetised and its a pain.I bought a cheap carbon fibre one for that
problem and when it arrived it only read to 1 dec. place on mm and
2 places on imperial that's to 2thou on metric and to 5 thou on imperial
Initially I was very disappointed,then realised I was using it all the time instead of a 6"rule.For all non tight tolerance work its ideal and non
magnetic.Will get a couple more at $5 a pop.Norm I have had thoughts floating around for a poss. project.Have you any knowledge of trying to
relace the tailstock with a 6 way turret assy ?? Way back I posted a thread
on converting a woodturning lathe to a metal lathe.Fabbed up thr carriage etc
It was fairly successful and I did use it before returning it to its originl
state.A 6 way turret as a taolstock carriage with gear drive thru the
existing rack etc,etc might not be too far fetched.Any input


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