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Old 05-03-2017, 05:31 AM   #41
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Norm you could if you wish make a backplate to fit the sieg with a Myford nose
Don't think it would be worth the effort.If going with my train of thought
then you can use the small lathe to make small items indoors in bad weather
One big advantage with the ER32 collet set is you can hold any size from 2mm to 20mm.I use it for holding threads without damage,and I have in mind
making and fitting a knurled alum ring,so I can close the collet by hand
I sometimes close the nut handtight for delicate items and with light cuts don't get slip.The beauty of this lathe is that it doesn't need bolting down and
you can pick it up and move it about


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Old 05-03-2017, 06:07 AM   #42
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Hi Niels,thank you for your offer I would really like to test
and review your latest revised tool,i know you have invested
a lot of time and effort.Photo shows I think what you are looking for
and should be constant for all sieg Sc2/3 lathes.The tool height is 18.5mm
don't understand why you would want another decimal place ?
One thought I have is why use 2mm sq carbide its so small and fiddly
surely 3mm would be a lot better.Still small enough to do really fine work
Regards Barry
Hello Baz
Is it 25 mm to edge or center of M10 hole?
I have given away all round and 3mm square carbide and holders
The real virtue of system is easy resharpening and 4 square mm is definately easier than 9

http://i.imgur.com/K7UxbJy.jpg


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Old 05-03-2017, 06:33 AM   #43
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Hi Niels,its 25mm to cline of tapped hole.Can I ask why discontinue the 3mm sq
carbide.Did it not work as well
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Old 05-03-2017, 06:59 AM   #44
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Hi Norm,will take some photos and post some details/advise.Let me know
the sellers name of the chinese version you find available,they are all the
same but different (gobbledigook).Also what price and availability of extras
Then you can decide what to buy and what to make.Basically all the 7" chinese lathes are seig what minor differences and all extras fit all lathes
It 's secondhand and being sold on behalf of a friend!

From what I can glean ,it is 'gey auld' by Chinese lathe standards.


Really, it is all a whim as I'm already nudging 87, have COPD, profoundly deaf and fighting - like most- senile dementure.

On a lighter note, I'm not in the Average Debt category of 13,000 which excludes mortgages


So fingers crossed- or look East for the next miracle

Cheers

N
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Old 05-03-2017, 07:22 AM   #45
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If you can afford it then do it.Im spending more on tooling than
I have ever done.No one to pass it on to.Some one somewhere
will get some bargains.Stuff we dream of.Only ever happened
to me once.Bought a green super 7 for 1000 pounds virtually
unused with lots of genuine Myford accessories.Swivel vertical slide
and vice,collets and chucks etc. Like a fool I sold for 1200 pounds when
came back to Oz.If only I had boxed and shipped it. Or well
Buy it post some photos and we can open a thread
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Old 05-03-2017, 07:51 AM   #46
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Hi Niels,its 25mm to cline of tapped hole.Can I ask why discontinue the 3mm sq
carbide.Did it not work as well
3mm square works very well but takes longer to resharpen.
If You run 1.9mm wide brown or blue swarf most amateur lathes are on limit.
2mm square is more than sufficient on my Boxford.

If Tantool holder heigth is 20mm or less(Myfords are 16.7) it becomes difficult, unsecure to have more than 2mm tool and M6 screw due to clearences.
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Old 05-03-2017, 08:57 AM   #47
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Baz,
I think you have made a wise choice with the SC 4 jaw chuck.

I have been using them for many years now, and even though they are of far eastern manufacture, I have found them to be far superior with regards to runout than standard 3 jaws of the same size, I have 3, and all run with less than 0.001" runout. Plus I also find them a little more versatile than a 3 jaw as they can hold both round and square stock which are the usual shapes we need to hold, but if I need to hold some hex, I have to revert to a 3 jaw.

Almost all far eastern lathes suffer from lack of taper locking in the tailstock quill, and can catch you out sometimes when the drill sticks in the hole it is drilling and start to spin the chuck. I designed a system of preventing that, but requires a tang to be fitted, but if you don't want to use a tang, I am sure that you could machine a flat on the small end of your chuck and centre tapers.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist....ad.php?t=24120


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Old 05-03-2017, 09:01 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bazmak View Post
If you can afford it then do it.Im spending more on tooling than
I have ever done.No one to pass it on to.Some one somewhere
will get some bargains.Stuff we dream of.Only ever happened
to me once.Bought a green super 7 for 1000 pounds virtually
unused with lots of genuine Myford accessories.Swivel vertical slide
and vice,collets and chucks etc. Like a fool I sold for 1200 pounds when
came back to Oz.If only I had boxed and shipped it. Or well
Buy it post some photos and we can open a thread
Ah, if only!.
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Old 05-03-2017, 09:18 AM   #49
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Thanks John, I very rarely hold hex and often hold square.So I decided
I wanted a 5" chuck so why not SC 4jaw. Came in handy for the Turners cubes
Not cheap, about $260 but well worth it.I have damaged my 4" 4 jaw independent,so may also go for the 5".Works well with my 8" lathe
With the sieg system,the bolt on chuck is locked anyway,only need a backplt to increase from 4 to 5".I had a 5" with my super 7 centre height if remember
just under 7"
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Old 05-03-2017, 10:25 AM   #50
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I agree with John about the 4 jaw SC chuck. Mine has a Myford body as have all the other chucks, face and catchplates but I obviously have 3 sets of collets and things which evoke some rather unnecessary and unwelcome criticism having come- like me- from a distant generation.

What bugs me is the blatant fact that Metric stuff is as cheap as chips whilst getting Imperial stuff is a bit like finding rocking horse manure. Tossing half a ton of coins ( 500) into the circus ring seems logical- and almost negligible.

Heigh Ho

Norm


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