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Old 04-14-2017, 04:12 AM   #11
bazmak
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Default Cross slide extension mod

I did this mod to my first lathe.No mill so I ground and chiselled the
carriage,made a new extended housing and fitted skate brgs which I found to be not necessary.Much simpler this time around.Milled out the underside
of the carriage to expose an additional 20mm of leadscrew thread
Made a 25mm brass housing extension to act as a bush/brg and made a
simple leadscrew extension.Cross slide travel now increased from 65mm to 100mm
All at the front where its required.This mod took a couple of hrs the original
mod too quite a few days.Far simpler and works really well.Also cleaned up the cross slide and checked adjusted the gibs.Casting and gib good just needed to
deburr everything and may put a coat of paint to the inside faces
I am really enjoying this.The next mod is one I did not do to the original lathe
That is to get rid of the 2 locking cap screws to the compound and fit locking
screws to the sides


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Old 04-14-2017, 05:38 AM   #12
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Thanks, Barry for continuing a creative and informative account!

I've been following the market trends here and note the huge drop of second hand prices here in the UK. So I DID get a further phone call about a similar metric lathe! which has been no where and done precious little.

I'll try to keep up to date although the continuing family matters take priority. This is only a game not a LIFE

Cheers

N

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I suppose that it is already 'organised chaos' having just had a phone call from yet another Goldstar. A merlin and Griffon engine fitter (1949 vintage). As one used to say 'Balls to Doctor Bangalstein!'
N


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Old 04-15-2017, 04:43 AM   #13
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Default Compound slide locking

This is a worthwhile mod that I never got to do on the original 7x16 lathe
Well worth the effort,about 3 hrs.Basically to get rid of those 2 annoying
cap screws that can only be got at by removing the compound.Basically the same as used on the MYFORD lathe Photos are self explanatory. PHOTO BUCKET DELETED
Note,i was not happy with this mod as cutting forces rocked the compound so i took
it back to its original design with the 2 hidden capscrews
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Old 04-15-2017, 04:10 PM   #14
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It looks like 3 hours of entertainment and pleasure instead of work. I too will replace worn or poorly designed parts with more robust versions so I share your satisfied feeling.

Thanks for sharing.
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Old 04-16-2017, 06:08 AM   #15
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Default All main 3 slides are finished

Made a simple scale/protractor from 1.5mm alum angle so I
have access to the new compound locking screws
Marked the angles from the old plastic one but not overly happy
Will probably remake in the future with more professional engraving
However all 3 slides are adjusted and work well.The 2 main mods also work well.Assembled everything back together and its starting to feel like a lathe
Have not done anything with the apron yet but one thing does need doing is
the plastic carriage handle has stripped threads to the grubscrew and is not
square to the shaft.WOBBLES.Not a big issue but will probably fit a better handle when I do the apronmods etc.Next is to strip it all down again
so I can start on the tailstock alignment and mods.Its wonderful when the stripdown only takes minutes.Will soon be able to use it and make a few items
Carriage lock and stop etc

Last edited by bazmak; 08-23-2017 at 05:32 AM. Reason: photobucket deleted
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Old 04-16-2017, 12:14 PM   #16
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[QUOTE=rodw;292610]Looks good Baz, I forget how clean my lathe was before I started to actually use it!



CLEAN!! you mean you're s'posed to keep it clean, Aaaaaagh!

George.
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Old 04-17-2017, 06:55 AM   #17
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Default The tailstock

I stripped the lathe down,about 10mins bliss.I used my new digital height gauge to check the headstock and tailstock heights.The tailstock measured 3 thou higher.PERFECT (or so I thought).Fixed wet and dry to the bed ways
and did some polishing,and without checking I knew it was perfect.
I then took the tailstock apart and between the upper and lower castings a brass shim fell out,6 thou bloody chinese.So I had to start again checking
heights and tailstock for horizontal.After 1 hr I finished up with a single
10 thou shim in the same place the other fell out.Now to start the mods
Took it all apart,deburred,tapped holes,fitted new screws etc.Had to skim
10 thou off the bearing housing to reduce backlash to near zero and with some grease etc got it turning nicely.Feels right.Then started modding
1-changed the cap screw from uside access to top access
2-Fitted blocks and push/pull screws for lateral adjustment
3-Cleaned and modded the clamping T block.
Photos tell the storyClick image for larger version

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Old 04-18-2017, 07:00 AM   #18
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Default Finish tailstock

Made and fitted a brass block with push screws to rear
Block also increases tailstock footprint for better stability
Next to check the alignment

Last edited by bazmak; 08-23-2017 at 05:37 AM. Reason: photobucket deleted
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Old 04-19-2017, 04:00 AM   #19
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Default Carriage Lock

First I set out align the tailstock.Just eying with a loupe.Front to back was easy
with the push/pull screws.Vertical was more fiddly.Where the 6 thou shim dropped out I replaced with 10 thou and finally finished with 8 thou.I then used the 6" rule method to fine tune.First time use for me and so easy
Final test will be to turn a test piece for parallel.For the purists I know
that the centres are spot on in 2 planes but are the headstock and tailstock
2 dimensionally inline with the ways.Will need to buy or make a No2 MT test bar to find out at a later stage.Made a simple carriage lock.Almost ready to
turn her on and make chips.Seems a shame to get her dirty
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Old 04-19-2017, 07:18 AM   #20
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Might I add a comment, please?

Of course Barry's most useful comments about a 6" rule are really only valid on a new or unworn lathe. Having said that, using a rule or whatever to set a lathe tool IS a good way to set up things- or round things on a mill

Thanks Barry

Norm


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