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Old 07-21-2017, 08:43 AM   #91
Niels Abildgaard
 
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Hello Baz and nice test bar.
Can You test concentricity between conical(MT3) and cylindrical sections?
It is also nice to see a tangential tool at work.
How does it compare chatter-wise to the QCTP on the small lathe, working hard?


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Old 07-21-2017, 10:03 AM   #92
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I'm curious Baz - how did you make it accurate to +-10 microns? That seems extreme precision for an unground bar, or maybe I missed something?


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Old 07-21-2017, 11:58 PM   #93
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I machined down the MT3 using the compound then blued and polished down
down to a good fit.With the bar bolted in to the lathe and with tailstock fitted
i took a few thou off in sc4 lathe to improve concentricity and nearer to size
I then transfered to the small lathe and checked.Not too bad.Then i took off another couple of thou checking size and parralelism. In this way i turned down the bar from 25.4mm to 25.1mm,continually moving the bar between lathes
and locking the MT3 in various positions.I then polished down with various
grades of paper to less than half a thou with the mike and a final finish checking with my digital mike which reads to 3 places . Got the full length to
+/- 0.010mm Near enough for me,but obviously defined by the lathe and the micrometer specs.Just an excercise really.I want it to check the alignment of the 25mm housing bores on the tailstock turret.Not tool room precision but
adequate for a home model engineer. Dont know how the ambient temperature will affect it but i probably wont be able to measure it either. Regards Barry
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Old 07-22-2017, 06:09 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bazmak View Post
I machined down the MT3 using the compound then blued and polished down
Then i took off another couple of thou checking size and parralelism. In this way i turned down the bar from 25.4mm to 25.1mm,continually moving the bar between lathes and locking the MT3 in various positions.
. Dont know how the ambient temperature will affect it but i probably wont be able to measure it either. Regards Barry
Thank You for answering. It sounds to me that Your MT3 lathe spindle holes are spot on .and ground after spindles were put in headstock.Quite swiss and very nice for a low cost ,mass produced hobby lathe.
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Old 07-22-2017, 07:21 AM   #95
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Thanks to the stout assistance of two Madmodder members from County Durham, England, I now have a Sieg C4 lathe- on my bench.

However, it's a metric C4 with two DRO's. One lights up but the other doesn't. Somehow, I question that the batteries in it were correct.

There seems to be no information on this so can anyone help?

So Baz, I sort of have a start. Needs a faceplate and a 4 jaw chuck and a good appraisal for goodies.

Cheers and Thanks

Norm
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Old 07-22-2017, 07:48 AM   #96
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Give us a photo and full description.Is it an Sc4.8"x 20" Look up on ebay or google.Is the spindle 72mm dia.I will post photos of mine then we can compare and discuss
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Old 07-22-2017, 08:56 AM   #97
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The clearest information is that it seems to be a direct copy of Frank Hoose's account for a 'SiegDRO' in 2003-ish.

Mine is a machine made in 2007.

Hoose refers to the similarity with the HF 6" digital caliper SKU47257

As far as I can see, this was powered with a SR44 and not what was in- when I managed with the greatest difficulty to extract.

According to the plate it is 450mm between centres

Really, I'm not unduly bothered about the rest of the machine but I'd like to crack the DRO repair or whatever.

Of course, there must be a helluva difference between a calliper and the DRO. Rambling further, there seems to be a much later mod somewhere of how to dispense with batteries and go onto a transformer.

Any clearer, please?

Norm


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Since a 'shelf rest' beloved of dentists, I think that there has been either corrosion- from old age and non use or evaporation of WD-40 but I seem to have a sort of 'lift off' and electrical contact.
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Old 07-22-2017, 10:10 AM   #98
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Norm,

SR44 are the correct batteries for these types of scales.

If you are looking to run them from a transformer, then it is a little more involved than you think.

First off, you require the accessory plug, usually mounted on the outside of the case, unless you want to go digging around in the electronic side of the unit to find where to put the power to. The leads to connect to these four pin sockets are few and far between, Arc used to sell them a few years ago, but stopped.
I had a transformer made by a friend of mine so that it could power not only the scale but also a remote display head.
Problems usually occur if you try to run the unit with a battery installed as well, the battery doesn't like power being fed to it and can explode, so that needs to have a cap across the battery contacts when the battery has been permanently removed, this is to keep things stable when you start the machine motor as the power feed to the unit cables pick up interference from the motor and it is a matter of trial and error to find the right one.




This is the cap on my mill scale, which should have basically the same method of working as yours are. It only took me two attempts to find the right size to cancel out all absorbed 'jitters' from the machines motor.
I just can't remember the size of the caps, but if you do a search online for 'replacing battery with power supply' you should get a few hits to give you an idea of what to do. Some people even make dummy batteries with the cap on it, but I just soldered between the two terminals.


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Old 07-23-2017, 12:09 AM   #99
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Please post the dim basics for the lathe.MAIN one being the spindle register dia
55,72,or 95mm are the 3 main ones.Then we can advise accessories
What is the lathe centre height (swing) and between ctres etc etc
Photos would be good
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Old 07-23-2017, 12:24 AM   #100
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Niels,the diamond tool works well.Did get a poor finish on the M/Taper
but that was down to the compound not the tool as i got the same with
a no of tools.The length of the taper was just on the limit of compound travel
and i got chatter at the extremes. Will need to look at a lock for the compound
so i can increase tension when reqd to take out the shakes.It wasnt a problem
as i spent a lot of time blueing and polishing to a good fit.This gave me a an accurate seat in the 2 headstocks before i started with the 25 dia section
Again multiple setting,very fine cuts with the diamond tool and finally lots of polishing down.Marked out every 20mm and polished down to 600grit
Not tool room quality but a good enough reference for what i need.The headstock MT3 s were indeed very accurate and i can transfer the bar between lathes with no discernable difference.I want to use it to check the 6 no 25mm dia turret stations in the capstan attachement i made.Should also be of use for
aligning the tailstocks


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