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Old 01-03-2016, 11:24 PM   #11
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Both wheels trying to rotate in the same direction.


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Old 01-04-2016, 02:41 AM   #12
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Oh, the shelf won't fit syndrome ! Where have I seen that before ?

Brian


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Old 01-04-2016, 02:48 AM   #13
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Third time I've cut it and it's still too short!

Pete
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Old 01-04-2016, 10:39 AM   #14
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Well spotted - the wheels must turn in opposite directions but the chain drive makes them go the same - and they collide.

Only became apparent on assembly.

Definitely a Duuuhhhh moment for me.

All was not lost - it was proof on concept in any case and most of the bits went into the final build.

I still can't believe I did that to this day.

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Ken
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Old 01-04-2016, 08:48 PM   #15
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Ken.

At least you salvaged most of it. In any event at work we must have hundreds of those wire carts and I've often wondered how the wire was bent. Now I know.

This brings up a question though, how much power do you need to drive that mechanism? I wonder about the viability of a hand crank machine to do similar one offs. With smaller wire it would also have application in model engineering.
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Old 01-05-2016, 08:08 AM   #16
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That version was believe it or not - hand cranked - with a 500mm long handle and it was really tiring to operate on 3/16" wire for more than a few seconds.

Note also the angular adjustment slots - whilst drawn symetrically this will produce an asymetric wrinkle and you have to adjust the angular offset to fix it.

The final machine uses 1 H.P. and an offset gear-train so that you can adjust the angular offset on the fly - see photo below.

The motor is geared down to a final speed of the wrinkling wheels of 14 rpm.

The offset varies with wire thickness and type (stainless or mild steel).

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Ken
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Old 01-05-2016, 02:21 PM   #17
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There is a difference between gears and sprockets...
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Old 01-06-2016, 05:30 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken I View Post
That version was believe it or not - hand cranked - with a 500mm long handle and it was really tiring to operate on 3/16" wire for more than a few seconds.
My first thought was model engineering so 3/16" would be pretty heavy.
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Note also the angular adjustment slots - whilst drawn symetrically this will produce an asymetric wrinkle and you have to adjust the angular offset to fix it.
Do you mean phase between the upper and lower wrinkle wheels? Or is this some sort of different angular offset?
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The final machine uses 1 H.P. and an offset gear-train so that you can adjust the angular offset on the fly - see photo below.
I'm missing something in my understanding here. In any event how easy is it to change the wrinkle wheels? A machine like this gives me all sorts of ideas.
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The motor is geared down to a final speed of the wrinkling wheels of 14 rpm.

The offset varies with wire thickness and type (stainless or mild steel).

Regards,
Ken
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Old 01-06-2016, 06:18 AM   #19
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Changing the wheels was never envisaged - it would also change the distance between them if you change the "depth" of the wrinkle or the pitch of the wrinkle as that would also change the wheel diameter.

Starting from scratch with that in mind you might be able to design in adjustment points.

As regards the offset - if the upper and lower roller are symetrically lined up (as per the photos) then the wrinkle comes out "sawtooth" unequally angled sides.

So you have to be able to angularly adjust one wheel relative to the other to correct it. The prototype design had slots which are a hit and miss affair to set and you obviously can't change it while the machine is running.

The second version had an unequal pair of idler gears which if moved from side to side changes the relationship between the two wrinkling wheels.

Hope this helps.

Regards,
Ken
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Old 01-06-2016, 01:27 PM   #20
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Was a bit too late in the game !!!!!!
Emgee



Last edited by xpylonracer; 01-06-2016 at 01:29 PM. Reason: Late posting
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