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Old 03-24-2013, 01:35 PM   #41
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Quote:
you need to look at the details when selecting a lathe but you can not forget the big picture.
What size engines are you planning on building ?
This can be a horse cart situation. I strongly recommend deciding on a goal when starting in this hobby. There are hundreds of plan sets out there. pick one or few you want to build. the size of the parts will determine what size machine is ideal to make the parts.
but do not be dismayed. you want to get started you find a deal on a lathe and you buy it. but you see that that dream model is twice the size that your new lathe will handle. simple solution scale down the model. I have fiend that has a sherline and makes beautiful model half the size of mine. Also if you are fortunate enough to find a bigger machine scale the model up.
this hobby is for fun and learning. machining is adaptive. no book no forum can teach it all. sometime you need to make a work around.

as far as threading same thing read prints. and again adapt if needed. in most cases a 4-40 screw can be used in substitute for a 3-48 .

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Old 03-24-2013, 09:44 PM   #42
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Default Compound Slide

The compound slide is a part of a lathe I neglected to mention and kind of took for granted as being standard part of a lathe. I would say many if not most lathes come with this feature. Everything from the humble seig 7 x whatever up. but many better quality small hobby lathes like the sherline and taig offer this as an option.

My edestaal 5 does not have one but It is now cnc so not as important.

the compound is used for :
short tapers
angle feed when threading
fine feed set the coumpound to ten degrees and .001 in feed on the compound is .0001 cross feed.
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Old 04-02-2013, 03:26 AM   #43
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Speed is another factor when determining a lathe.

I have a 9x20 and my only complaint is it doesn't have a slower speed than 180 which makes for some standing hair on your neck threading.

Funny thing is I watched a guy on YouTube thread with the 9x20 running at 2000rpm and says he can't do it any other way.
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:51 PM   #44
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Default Lathe Types and lathe terms.

As mentioned earlier selecting a lathe can be confusing. and many of the marketing terms can be confusing or meaningless. we can all look at Google definitions and some of those are confusing so how do we sort things out.

Here is my personal view on lathe terms.
Hobby lathe : a lathe marketed for home and hobby use. These lathes may or may not be suitable for model engine building especially some of the older ones. so do your homework use common sense and look before you leap.
the unimat , craftsman 109 , Sherline ,Taig , Seig c2 and c3 are all examples of hobby lathes. In reality just about any lathe can be used for hobby use as long as it fits your budget ,shop space and needs for your style and experience machining.

Engine lathe this definition seems a bit undefined from what I have read. seems to be another term for a machinist screw cutting lathe.

Screw cutting lathe simply a metal cutting lathe designed and built to do single point threading.

Gap bed lathe . a lathe that has a removable piece of lathe bed near the head stock . removing this piece allows for a larger diameter to be turned. .

Tool room lathe. these lathes are normally made to a somewhat higher standard than engine lathes. ie higher precision. they commonly have more tooling like a collet set and a taper attachment. You may need to take lighter cuts than on a engines lathe or other production machine.

turret lathe . a lathe built to make the same part over and over all day. the tail stock has places for multiple tools . pull the lever and a tool cuts push the lever back and it advances to the next tool . typical set up by a machinist but may be operated by a less skilled operator.
turret lathe often also have production cross slides that aid in the machining. These are also lever operated.
the advantage is you can make a part in a few minutes just by pulling the lever or levers. the disadvantage is more tooling and more setup time.
but if you want to or need to make lots of copies of the same part this can be the way to go.

captain lathe: very similar to above.

down river tools sells plans for turret attachments and the tooling for them that can be mounted on various hobb lathes like sherling the seig c2/3 and the seig 9x19.
tin
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Old 11-29-2013, 12:03 AM   #45
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Default Will it thread?

There's a guy on you tube threading with the 8X18
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Old 03-16-2014, 12:16 AM   #46
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I have bought and sold two lathes, and now bought a third. I found that a Chinese manufactured lathe (same maker as my mill) has a product called a CQ6125 that seems to appear in a dozen different places, called something similar (Brand name of a retailer plus the CQ6125), but often with different accessories, tools, etc.

Here is the spec sheet for my unit ($1300):
Lathe

22"x10" (550 x 250MM) QUICK CHANGE GEARBOX METAL LATHE W/STAND
Industrial quality machine, perfect for general machining in tool rooms and workshop, maintenance and production shops, cast iron quick-change gear box makes threading easy, machine ground, hardened iron cast bedways and come with 4 ways tool post, it has long travel automatic power feed, includes stand cabinet

specification: 

-distance between center: 550mm (22") 

-swing over bed: 250mm (10") 

-swing over cross slide: 156mm (6") 

-spindle bore: 26mm (1")

-taper of tailstock: MT3

-tailstock spindle travel: 65mm (2-1/2")

-number of longitudinal feeds: 9 (0.063-0.350mm/rev, 0.0025"-0.013"/rev)

-thread cutting: 38 kinds (metric 0.25-3.5mm & imperial 8-72tpi)

-range of spindle speed: 6 (125rpm-2000rpm) 

-motor: 750w (1HP)/240v/1ph (single phrase)

-max. tool size to use size:10mm x 10mm (3/8"x3/8")

-max. compound size travel: 95mm (3-3/4")

-max. cross size travel: 145mm (5-1/2")

-steady rest capacity: 6.35-50mm (1/4"-2")

-follow rest capacity: 6.35-50mm (1/4"-2")

-length of bed: 1050mm (41-1/4")

-width of bed: 155mm (6")

-height of bed: 200mm (8")

*accessories includes:
stand cabinet,
splash guard,
chip tray,
5" 3-jaws lathe chuck,
6" 4-jaws lathe chuck,
8" face plate,
dead center,
fixed steady,
travel steady,
change gears,
toolbox etc.


*Shipping weight (all up): 298kgs


Now, I've unpacked this new toy, assembled the cabinet/stand unit, bolted the lathe to the stand, and started to prepare it for use.

I've checked the level of the machine with several highly accurate levels placed across and along the ways, and had to shim up the back of the lathe (concrete floor). That seems to be OK now.

But I would never run my mill without bolting it down: this lathe cabinet/stand doesn't have facilities to bolt it to the floor. Is that what you would expect?

I've run the tailstock up to the head stock, centres in each, and the two points meet by eye (and, on the way back the point of the centre in the tailstock seems to be at the tool height (right knife in tool holder).

But, is this last process too imprecise (Yes, but how do you do this check properly?).

What other steps does one do to get the best set up of a new small lathe?

Also, I can comfortably hold 13mm x 13mm (1/2") tools in the tool holder: if I am managing the speed, depth of cut and rate of cut, using cutting oil when necessary, am I really silly to ignore this limit of 10mm tools?
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Old 03-17-2014, 01:11 AM   #47
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CAPSTAN LATHE
During the last two months of my trade school in 1963 , I was selected to set up a brand new Capstan Lathe and cut hex head screw blanks for the Open House Day.
Gus survived and the Capstan Lathe too and we turned hundreds of hex head screw blanks.
The entire class qued up to cut some blanks with Gus guiding them.
We did not get to try out the quick release threading Die as the instructors felt we could ruin it.
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Old 11-06-2016, 10:27 PM   #48
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Would the LMS 7x16 lathe work for 3/4" scale live steam engines? I realize some wheels might need a larger lathe.

Also the X2 mill that they sell- for other parts.
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Old 11-06-2016, 11:31 PM   #49
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Radar,

As you have already stated the size of the lathe, 7" swing. So I doubt if 3/4" scale would have wheels anywhere near that size, plus the x2 is a very well tried and trusted small mill, and much larger items that you will make have been made on such machines.

If you are contemplating buying new, then I would suggest you spend a week or two setting up the lathe and mill to perfection as they are only assembled at the factory, not set up. If you do that, they should give you a long service with no major problems, except maybe for your own lack of knowledge about using such machinery, that only comes with experience.

John
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Old 11-07-2016, 01:03 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blogwitch View Post
Radar,

As you have already stated the size of the lathe, 7" swing. So I doubt if 3/4" scale would have wheels anywhere near that size, plus the x2 is a very well tried and trusted small mill, and much larger items that you will make have been made on such machines.

If you are contemplating buying new, then I would suggest you spend a week or two setting up the lathe and mill to perfection as they are only assembled at the factory, not set up. If you do that, they should give you a long service with no major problems, except maybe for your own lack of knowledge about using such machinery, that only comes with experience.

John
John,
Curiously enough the largest I have seen the wheels is around 5 inches.
I was mostly worried about these machines being rigid enough for that kind of work. I had planned on having my mentor help me with any set up and what not- making sure everything is aligned and the like. The dealer (Little Machine Shop) has a great reputation as far as quality and the like is concerned as well. The only other likely thing to happen is a Taiwanese Myford clone my come my way.

-Dean


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