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Old 01-12-2017, 10:27 PM   #71
goldstar31
 
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Baz

You may be interested in something called the Kennet. No longer available as part finished castings from Ivan Law but a very detailed description is in Lathes.co.uk.

It may is quite a straightforward construction and slides on cast iron- the castings. It may suggest alternatives.

I have one, incidentally.

Norm


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Old 01-12-2017, 11:07 PM   #72
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Thanks Norm.We oldies have to keep a finger on the pulse.Ours that is
I checked thru the info you sent me but cant find anything.It will take me 2 lifetimes to go thru it all.Then looked at the link you sent me.Brilliant
Great info on the Kennet with lovely photos.Maybe get some ideas
The site looks great so I have made a shortcut to explore on rainy days
Today is one by the way.2 days of 40oc and today 40mm of rain
Great it means I can get in the shed


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Old 01-13-2017, 12:15 AM   #73
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If you recall the books by Arnold Throp of Dore Engineering, you know the Dore Westbury mill too, he had a Quorn and also a Kennet.
Yonks back, I nattered with him at a show as he had both on a stand.

He found the old Kennet a great deal quicker for routine work.

Clears throat, I also have Quorn and clears throat another bit, I also have a Stent. The Stent wasn't made by me, it was fabricated from mild steel sections.

Anyway, I'm delighted to read of your progress. Keep it up, please

Norm

Weather? It is 0C and the earlier gale has taken out my fencing -around the rest home for old wearies.

Again, there are spring tides and Newcastle Quayside has barricades to try to exclude the River Tyne.

I've been spreading Tiger Balm on my arthritic hands. Oh, and lots of alcohol if the ointment doesn't work.
Hiccups
N
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Old 01-13-2017, 06:05 AM   #74
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Weather cooled down and rain most of the day so I spent a few hours
remaking the slide I finished yesterday.Feel much better for it
The new slide seems to work better,so on to the next stage
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Old 01-13-2017, 12:18 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bazmak View Post
Hi Baron, I assume from your photo that the whole table slides side to side on the grooved nylon wheels.
Yes it does. The wheels are actually turned a couple of mm off centre, so that they can be adusted for clearance. However if I was doing it again I would make slipper blocks from brass or bronze, because the nylon is quite coarse and grips the table plate more than I care for.

Quote:
I have also ordered an er 16 collet chuck on a 16mm dia spindle which could slide in a housing rather than a collet block and take me in the same direction as you.
Be aware that you might have to open up the bore of the collet body in order to get a 10 mm drill down its full length. The collet body on mine was very hard and I had to modify a masonary drill in order to open it up.

Quote:
With regards to my problem I have tried grinding with the table tilted up and I am not happy with it I will make a new slide and beef it up slightly so I can fit a feed screw alongside with the stop at the front and the knurled feedscrew to the rear.
I thought that from your video you had an adjustable stop at the front. So tilting the table down shouldn't be a problem for setting how much to take off the drill tip. f you want to examine the drill lips, just slide the tool block back off. You would have to turn the tool block 180 degrees to do the other lip.

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I am only playing about and that's half the fun for me. But looking at your photo another avenue will be a sq block reamed 16dia and my new clollet chuck fitted the fine adjustment can then be fitted to the 16 dia spindle.I would have to fit a keyway to spindle to give a sliding fit and stop it revolving.
I pressed a 2mm dia steel pin into the back of my tool block and fitted a collar with a semicircular slot milled into it. A thumbscrew locks it in place on the collet body.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist....1&d=1484309401

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist....1&d=1484309401

As you can see it is just a steel dowel pin.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist....1&d=1484309551

The slot was milled using a 2.5 mm carbide router bit, intended for routing PCB slots.
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Old 01-13-2017, 10:55 PM   #76
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Thanks for your input Baron,can you give me more details
on how the pin and semi circular slot work. Regards barry
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Old 01-14-2017, 10:58 AM   #77
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Hi Barry,

The first picture shows the collar that controls how far the collet rotates. The pin in the tool block protrudes about 3/8th on an inch (10 mm) The slot in the collar is about 11 mm deep. As long as the collar can go flush with the rear of the tool block, it isn't at all critical. The thumbscrew simply locks the collar onto the collet body.

Though you won't notice it but the pin should be 180 degrees further round. I hadn't noticed that when rotating the collet, the thumbscrew goes under the toolholder rather than over. Minor detail since when the thumbscrew is tightened it doesn't foul the mounting plate.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist....484389993http:

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist....484389993http:

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist....1&d=1484389993

This last picture shows the assembly along with the adjusting screw, which is M3 X 0.5 complete with a spring to apply tension so it doesn't move with any vibration.

The thumbscrew in the toolholder body simply locks the collet body from moving whilst grinding the drill. The whole lot sits on two 3 mm dowels pressed into the base and locate in the baseplate. There are three holes in the baseplate allowing 118 and 125 degree sharpening angles, the front hole being used as the pivot point.

FWIW the piece of brass bar that the toolblock is sat on, is only superglued to it, very much an experiment to see if it would be secure. Up to now it hasn't come loose.


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