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Home Model Engine Machinist > Showing Them > A Work In Progress > 5"g Simplex steam loco build (hopefully)

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Old 10-18-2017, 07:12 AM   #51
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Lancashire, England.
Posts: 4

Hi Barry
I live in the borough of Pendle which is just north of Burnley, and have had a lifelong involvement with steam hence the online handle. Spent a number of years as ships engineer mostly steam turbine plant, then even more years as boiler inspector around northern U.K. Now retired, best job ever!
As regards your wheels, many in our club use what we know as a French Key. Once your wheels are correctly positioned on thei axles, you drill half in the axle end and half in the wheel say 1/8 to 3/16 diameter with a depth of say three quarters the wheel thickness. You then press in a round dowel with a drop of loctite if necessary. When dressed off flush with the wheel face and painted they are barely noticeable. If you ever need to pull your wheels, a grub screw may have seized in; whereas the wheel will draw over the dowel.

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Old 10-18-2017, 09:57 AM   #52
Join Date: Jun 2013
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Default Keyways and stuff

For Pendlesteamer and Bazmak
I've seen many and varied methods of quartering drivers and parallel keys do it for me, every time. I use a very simple truly square lump of suitably bored mild steel, into which one axle is keyed. It's a simple matter to then rotate the assembly 90 degrees and machine the other. With reasonable attention to accuracy, it'd be hard to miss! Note that the assembly is held to the mill table, not in a mill vice.
The French key described: we used to call it a 'Scotch' key!
Brakes. Ah, brakes. There's another external-contracting hydraulic unit on my riding truck, two axles of which are linked with roller chain. One of my passenger trucks - a bogie vehicle - also has both axles on each bogie chain linked. The chain run on each is led over a mid-positioned sprocket, on the axle of which is 200mm brake disc, carrying a motor-cycle disc caliper. A motor-cycle master cylinder and flexible lines ensure that all 8 wheels brake together. It's possible to lock up all 8 wheels when loaded.
None of the braking I've used, though, will bring a loaded train to screaming halt. Not a lot is gained, as you say, by locking wheels, other than annoying flat spots.
For internal keyways, I use my own home made broaches. Cutting the mild steel drivers' keyways, while needing a few passes with the broach, is quite easy.

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Old 10-18-2017, 12:23 PM   #53
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Lancashire, England.
Posts: 4

Hi Wazrus
Yes you are correct it should be Scotch Key or sometimes Dutch Key according Wikipedia.
Emergency stops are difficult with loaded trains as you say, it is imperative to keep a sharp lookout ahead especially when multiple trains are operating. We have had the occasional near miss and they are always due to lapses in attention when adjusting injectors or firing coal etc.
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Old Yesterday, 07:23 AM   #54
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Location: adelaide south australia
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Default Cylinders

Thanks Rodger,for your info.Been to Burley many times for work and years ago
to watch Leeds.I always remember the crowd chanting (keep codding them Elder)
Well the cylinder set arrived and all checked out OK. Again i took the long way round.When i did the 3 cyl Heilan Lassie i did everything in the lathe on faceplt/angle.It was easy and the words and music came from dear old Curly
from 1947.Now i have the mill and the casting are much larger.For boring i
could use the mill but prefered to use the lathe.I deskinned and took a light cut
to all main faces ignoring dims but trying to get squareness to all faces
mainly for gripping in the chuck and use of datums.I then gripped in the 4 jaw and centraalised the cored hole before boring out/cleanup and faced the end
Mainly to check out the accuracy of the bore for parallel etc.Quite good
So i reversed,recentralised and bored and faced the other end to size.I then put in the mill and faced the first end to size. Now was the tricky bit,ie machining the 2 main faces to dim but more importantly parallel to the bore
Little bit of playing about and packing with feeler gauges but it was easy to measure from the face to the edge of the bore.Long way round but got there in the endClick image for larger version

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