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Old 05-07-2017, 04:04 AM   #521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post
James, you may want to think about using a seperate switch rather than the NVR on/off switch for the auto-off. If something goes awry it might not be a good idea trying to press the red button and have the saw drop on your finger. A heavy duty roller micro-switch in series with the NVR would I think be the way to go and put the NVR somewhere that you can reach in an emergency.
John
John - at the moment I'm avoiding doing things that required new holes or the cutting/redoing of wiring as that will void my warranty. This saw came with a 36 month warranty. Really don't want to do anything that could stuff that.

Anyway, I have a plan to put a hydraulic cylinder on the down feed so, in theory, I shouldn't get into a situation where pinched fingers is the risk due to the saw dropping.

However, in the future a cleaner wiring setup would be desirable and your idea would come into play at that point.

Cheers,
James.


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Old 05-07-2017, 04:39 AM   #522
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Default Bandsaw cart

A little bit of a mixed update on the bandsaw cart.

Just a little show of utilising some clamps and the toolmakers clamps in a way to get around clamping limitations of the saw vice. At least until I can get some stock cut to make jaw extensions and the separation rod to keep the clamping jaw from pivoting.
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I embarked on a bit of work with the brown stuff today getting some shelf boards made. This is the one for the cart bottom and I also did one on the lathe stand while I was on a roll and managed to neatly use up the last of a sheet of plywood. This base will ultimately have some draws and cupboards added to provide a little more storage space and to keep all the bits relating to the bandsaw in one location.
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This is the delivery end of the bandsaw coolant. The steel block (I would have preferred Aluminium but I just do not have the stock) will be the basis for the mounting block for the flexi spout and for a hose barb to be screwed into. I'll have to model this idea up and will try and remember to post the render/plans for what I come up with.
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Old 05-15-2017, 09:17 AM   #523
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Default TIG Welding - steep learning curve

So I have the BOC 175 multifunction setup for lift-TIG. Got a little D size argon bottle on rental to trial this process before committing to anything more.

So I'm learning and practicing and watching lots of educational videos. So I thought I would share the work after having the setup functional, the results from Day #3 of my TIG journey.

It's not "great" but I don't think its complete rubbish. The material being worked on is 35mm SHS with a 3mm wall. Its hot rolled but with the mill scale scrubbed off. All joints done using the dab method on the filler rod. No lay-wire method.
First TIG tacks. Seriously, only got to trying tacking things tonight.
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A single joint to get warmed up. Not too bad and a heck of an improvement on Day 1 and 2.
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The results of welding 3 sections together all the way around. All I have done is buff the welds up. No other post grinding work. All in all having a lot of fun and starting to see why many people love this welding system. The temptation to get a nice little 200amp AC/DC TIG machine is definitely growing.
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Old 05-19-2017, 10:26 PM   #524
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Default Bandsaw cutoff table - cutting angles

Trying to keep multiple projects going at the moment but thought this use of the cut-off table might be of interest.

Essentially I needed to cut some 60 degree angles and I didn't want to muck up the main fence which I have nicely set to an accurate 90 degrees to the blade. Using a protractor to clamp a fence I was able to hold the steel sections securely and reputably at 60 deg to the blade. Worked pretty well for the 8 parts that I needed to cut.

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Old 05-25-2017, 08:29 AM   #525
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Default Bandsaw improvement - and SOOO simple

Another small change which was suggested to me by bruedney.

Such a simple thing and its like I have a new saw. What is this change you might ask? A new M20 classic V belt. I still had the original Chinese supplied belt. Looked ok, but in all honesty I wouldn't know a good belt from a bad one. Anyway bruedney suggested a new belt might be a good idea, I sourced one from a local supplier (actually from Tauranga: https://www.bayengineerssupplies.co.nz) for a mere $3.40 (plus GST and $8 shipping so I got a whole bunch of screws to make it all worth while). Anyway previously I had really bad vibration, to the point I was wondering if the wheels the blade ran on where not very concentric. However put this new belt on tonight and the saw is better than new. It's rock solid and much quieter.

WIN!
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Old 05-25-2017, 01:38 PM   #526
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James,

My 4x6 bandsaw has aluminum cone pulleys for the V-belt. I have reduced vibration due to them being unbalanced and non-concentric.

Here is what I did:

1. Removed both pulleys and made a mandrel for mounting them in the lathe.

2. Carefully checked for "Roundness" with simple pointer, then dial indicator.

3. Gently bent them into roundness with various lever setups and by squeezing in my 6-in. vise. ( I needed jigs made from wood to help with this.) (I also admit that I have a little experience with metal-forming, so was able to do this successfully.)

4. After I got them round, carefully skimmed V-belt notch sides in the lathe and checked with indicator.

5. Used Mower-Blade balancing cone device to determine if one side was heavier and relieved same (found casting flash on backside that could come off.)

6. After remounting pulleys, removed bade from saw and ran at different speeds while searching for vibration.

7. Made sure that not undue force would be put on pulleys while changing speeds. Tweaked motor mount and tension adjuster to make sure that speed-changing would not stress the pulleys.

8. Vow not to use the lowest speed, where the belt has to run on the outermost, largest part of the gearbox-driver pulley.

Best of luck with your projects. I am following your progress and your projects.

Thanks for posting,

--ShopShoe


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