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Correct. It was just used for testing purposes and for the look, and what I had from my stash of RC airplane stuff. I will get a proper wooden prop meant for gas RC planes.

Piston and Contra-piston: Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly: Crank case, Cylinder, Piston, Connecting Rod Assembly Further test assembly with unhardened crank shaft: Crank Shaft Hardening Process O2 Drill Rod Quenching and Tempering: Drill rod crankpin was later red loctite and pressed...

Cylinder Head: Connecting Rod:

Here's a build log of a BollAero 18 I built over several months in Summer of 2021 and had my grandfather accompany to experience machining. Unfortunately it doesn't turn over. Either the fuel mixture isn't correct or not enough compression. First 10 Pictures of the Build: Crank Case...

The Titanium is a Titanium Nitride (TiN) coating. It is thin (~10um or 0.0003") but very hard coating to prevent wear, and can also eliminate Built Up Edge when cutting at low speeds. It is also a diffusion barrier. One disadvantage is that it is bad when intermittent cutting. Ian

Might have missed it if it was already posted, but another use for a rotary table is to make the crank cases for any number of cylinder RADIAL ENGINES. Here's how I made the prototype crank case for my 8 cyl radial engine I'm taking forever to make:

I was wondering any of you have sources to find videos of people milling or turning? More specifically i'm not looking for tutorials, but just videos of someone making the parts for their next engine. These videos wouldn't be narrated or heavily edited; really, just a camera propped up...

Looks more like Solidworks to me. And yes, it is a cool model Ian

Not sure how that would be ok. Wouldn't the crankpins be slightly off then? Wouldn't that then cause the pistons to be in the incorrect position in relation to each other? or is there a decent tolerance for engines? Wow, that really does sound effective. Having that flat spot would prevent it...

I haven't been following this build, but will sure enough browse through the rest of the excellent progress achieved with this engine. Curious to know how you were able to form the 5 centerbores on both ends of the crankshaft. How did you align it such to have the paired centerbores opposite...

Props to you and your machining capabilities. Very motivating to beginning and experienced machinists alike. Looking at your Valve Components (Post 87 page 9) I noticed I came up with the same setup for my 8 cyl radial engine. I was wondering what diameter the rod is and where you would suggest...

As I do not have a milling machine just yet, I do not have a way to drill the holes in the base of the cylinders to use it as if it were a lathe dog with bent tail. I could even see the cutting forces inflecting damage on the soft brass. My plan for machining it would be to drill the bore -->...

It all makes sense. Thank you Ian

Update: I searched up some mandrels, but I am having trouble understanding how it is mounted to the lathe. Mandrels are just bars that have a slight taper to them, but how do I attach it to my lathe? Aren't they supposed to have a Morse Taper on them or some other custom holder? Ian

Thanks everyone, I'll look into the mandrels and see what will be best. I'll make sure to make extra cylinders so if I botch one I dont need to remount and dismount the chuck. Ian

My lathe is a 7x10. I believe it has a MT3 Taper in the spindle. I assume I just remove the chuck, and then slap the mandrel into the spindle bore? How would I remove a mandrel or dead center from the spindle? Would I have to remove the gear cover and use some stock to knock it out like an arbor...

I am planning to return work on my 8 Cylinder Radial Engine. I have been gifted some very nice brass (three times what i need), and hope to use it as cylinders for the engine. I will be using UHMW for the pistons to reduce wear on the brass. Brass being pricey as it is, I was hoping to make...

You sure are working fast... or is that just me rushing to get to the next great picture? Ian edit: ah, i see it's been a year now... get distracted by the pics to notice the date

If you put sides on it most of the swarf will be held in and then when you fold it down the swarf will fall on the floor easy to sweep up. Ian

At my university, they have giant squidgy type brooms. Works same way a windshield wiper works. Though they aren't nice to push, its' all got to do with the angle of attack of the squidgy rubber. ie: it's easier to pull to the left having the rubber on an angle: \\ <-----...