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I had no intention of being critical. I applaud your efforts. I enjoy all means to an end. I've seen a few posts here and there about using the three / four wire coils (driver included). Case in point post #112 by Eccentric. I might have missed your particular post . Seems the way to go...

Ok. Thanks for getting all the info together in one place. I'll order the stuff just to play around. That said my driver board (Sage / Gedde - presented elsewhere here) and a cheap COP coil is cheaper and smaller as a whole package. Also I've never run into a practical rpm limit with the coil...

Thanks Terry.

Welcome to retirement Roy. Well deserved. I'm very glad you were able to find another builder for the CDI's. There would be a HUGE hole in the model community if they were to disappear. And Thanks Dan for picking it up. We all appreciate it.

Crazy nice workmanship. Over and over on this engine !! Always amazing. What is your source for the Alodine process chemicals? I love the look. I already can do anodizing. Perhaps it is not necessary to add this process to my repertoire?? Thanks

bluejets: Was there ever a link posted for a CDI module that works with your circuit? I know you mentioned that some don't work with your circuit. Perhaps even some from the same supplier. It would be useful if you could post a link to get started. I can take my chances on supply reliability and...

Yes. Close enough. Although some of Roy's later ignitions were more sophisticated and used a PIC processor for multi spark and some timing functions.

If you do that Dave, see if you can use the miniature coils Roy used to use. The physical size is great if trying to hide it and the little buggers will jump a half inch gap. That's the plan. For the uninitiated - Be careful testing any coil with an excessive spark gap. At some point the coil...

Terry: I'm with you. Even though I make my own coil drivers I too don't like the large (COP) coils and the necessity to hide them. So I've been using Roy's CDI modules (originals as you show). But alas, they are not available any more. I guess it's about time to design my own. I have a few...

Forget the balloon. As suggested by others put your finger over the spark plug hole and check for compression. Try starting fluid to see if it responds.

Does the compression gauge have a working check valve?

Terry: PM me if you want a module.

You can buy these, but if you know someone with a 3D printer you can make them. I made a few of various heights. For 4 or 3 jaws. The magnets hold it in place. No need to remove it when you start the lathe. It can't go anywhere. It doesn't have to be that fancy either. Just a star shape. It...

I guess the bottom line is you need to design the engine (crank and cam) to suit what is possible / required for the ignition you want to use. Turn it over in your CAD program and watch the timing of the whole assembly and make a plan..

Thanks. I'll look it up.

Can you recommend one of your favourite Wilbur Smith books?

How high of an rpm does it cut out at? I assume drill cranking speed because you never said you got it to run. So maybe 3000 rpm crank?? In any case: Do a bit of measurement to determine how many degrees of cam rotation the trembler is active. At the rpm in question how long (in time) is the...

Contact Roy he makes a version of your system that is multi-spark. I believe it uses the same sensor arrangement except the sparks start when the hall sensor is covered by the magnet and stop when it is cleared. A small adjustment in the timing is required to get the sparks starting at TDC or...

Good to hear. I've been around the block many times. Had you checked it with an ohm meter as I suggested you would have detected that open HV lead connection. Hopefully the HV coil is not damaged. Because when the spark has nowhere to go it can jump inside the coil itself damaging the coil. This...

Of course Roy will comment But You might wonder why it chooses to jump so far INSIDE the module when it only has to jump the small gap of the spark plug. Check your connections to the spark plug. With an ohmmeter. The HV cable or the black return likely has a bad connection.