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Old 02-22-2011, 03:20 PM   #11
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Default Re: Stuart triple - types of metals to get

As I remember, the mnemonic goes like this...

304, she's a whore,
303, she's for me.



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Old 02-22-2011, 03:55 PM   #12
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Default Re: Stuart triple - types of metals to get

Quote:
Originally Posted by GWRdriver
hankey,
IMHO specifying hardened (or hardenable) pins is more a tip of the hat to tradiiton than actual need. The shear forces present in the engine certainly wouldn't be great enough to require that. I like pinned and cottered and keyed connections, these were the oldest traditional way of making connections, and something you might look into is that the clockmaking world uses pinned connections so small tapered pins and reamers will be available from clockmakers suppliers.
Funny you mention the pinned, cottered and keyed connections.

Stuart's plans show using grub screws to lock the eccentrics and the flywheel to the crank. I have already decided to deviate from the plan in this regard and use a keyway for the flywheel, as that would seem a much more appropriate interface for the little extra effort. I will likely use a keyway for two of the two eccentrics that can be slid on, and tossing around a couple thoughts for the third eccentric that fits between crank throws. I will just need to be very sure I have the valve timing nailed down before I broach the eccentrics. I hadn’t considered the clock making world as a possible source of smaller sized broaches or tapered reams. Makes great sense. I'm actually somewhat surprised they would specify grub screws on a kit that is clearly aimed at a more advanced machinist.



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Old 02-22-2011, 07:44 PM   #13
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Default Re: Stuart triple - types of metals to get

Quote:
Originally Posted by rhankey
I'm actually somewhat surprised they would specify grub screws on a kit that is clearly aimed at a more advanced machinist.
Not to detract from their worth as model projects, most of the Stuart engines aren't scale models of anything in particular and poetic license has been taken for utility and simplicity's sake but that doesn't prevent us embellishing and complicating as we see fit. There was a very interesting set of articles published some years ago in Model Engineer magazine on modifying the bones and details of model engines so to make them more faithful to prototypical practice. I'll see if I can find the reference. Then there is the "discussion", running some 40 years now, on which goes on first, the main nut of the jamb nut. Most people don't really care, and I probably count myself in that group.
Quote:
I hadn’t considered the clock making world
I visited a clock restorer's shop many years ago and noted that most of the components including wheels, shafts, pinions, stanchions, etc, on an ancient Seth Thomas grandfather clock works were pinned or cottered rather than screwed and that stuck with me. Later in life when I began studying the details of older engines, beam engines in particular, I recognized immediately that they too were usually held together by pins and cotters and wedges rather than nuts and bolts.
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Old 02-22-2011, 08:28 PM   #14
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Default Re: Stuart triple - types of metals to get

And with that The Discussion rages on . . . . .

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Old 02-25-2011, 06:34 PM   #15
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Default Re: Stuart triple - types of metals to get

Congratulations, great project.
to inform you, I build it a couple of year ago. 315 hours of works, but nice engine and run well!!

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Old 09-12-2011, 09:08 PM   #16
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Default Re: Stuart triple - types of metals to get

Hi All,

I just wanted to post a follow up now that I've made some progress with the Stuart Triple Expansion. As I mentioned previously, this is my first metal working project – a rather ambitious one at that. I wish to thank all for the recommendation to use 303 SS.

I have completed the 8 vertical columns (started with easy parts to get used to the metal), then moved directly onto probably one of the most difficult parts; the crank shaft which I completed yesterday. The finished crankshaft is 11" long shaft (for grins I made mine about 2" longer than specified) x 3/8" diameter with three throws which I chose to make from a single piece of 1.5” diameter bar stock (rather than trying to make a built up shaft). The crankshaft came out perfectly, is dead straight and looks wonderful with a mirror like finish. I couldn't imagine having tried to make this crankshaft if I was also dealing with a more challenging metal. Once I've made and mounted the counter weights, which I'm going to make out of SS too (rather than using the supplied cast iron blanks), I feel like I'll have the courage/confidence to take on the sole plate and cylinder heads for which there are also an abundance of critical measurements that I need to nail in order for everything to align properly. This has been a lot of fun so far.

Again, thanks for the metal recommendations.

I know I’ll have more questions in the coming many months as I carry on with the build.

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Old 09-14-2011, 02:35 PM   #17
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Default Re: Stuart triple - types of metals to get

I think you are telling tall tales... post a picture to PROVE that you have produced this wonderful crank from 1.5" solid.
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(Of course we believe you, we are just picture and video junkies!) :P Seriously, if you have a cheap digital camera that you can knock about the shop, you will be glad in the future that you took some images along the way.

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Old 09-16-2011, 05:16 PM   #18
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Default Re: Stuart triple - types of metals to get

I understand - pictures, or it didn't happen...

I've not dealt with uploading pictures before to this site, and my camera lens lacks a macro setting, so what is in focus appears to have blemishes that aren't in the real crankshaft.

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Old 09-16-2011, 05:47 PM   #19
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Default Re: Stuart triple - types of metals to get

Nice looking parts, and the pic is fine.

Cheers

jeff

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Old 09-16-2011, 06:13 PM   #20
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Default Re: Stuart triple - types of metals to get

HI great looking crank .Kozo tells how to do this too . I've been going to try it. Agian great job! Dale



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