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Old 01-06-2008, 02:54 PM   #41
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Default Re: Finger engine

John, I admire your ability to get out in the shop and get things done. Seems like I spend too much time thinking about engines and too little time actually making chips!

Chuck



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Old 01-06-2008, 05:02 PM   #42
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Thanks for the compliments lads, Chuck, just to answer your comment. I get out there and do it when I can, I just might not feel up to it tomorrow.

Anyway, managed to get a bit done on the flywheels.

You can see on the first pic that I have marked them out to roughly what I want to achieve. There is a reason in my madness for choosing such diverse designs. The one on the left is being given to my friend who is the size of a gorilla, so I thought a nice heavyweight flywheel. The right hand one will have children playing with it, so I thought a much lighter flywheel, with no big places to stick fingers in, and if they did get their little digits in the engine somehow, it wouldn't hurt so much.




Three hours later, the basic flywheels are done, ready for boring and polishing.
When I talk about how long it takes me to do something, it isn't boasting, it is trying to show that these sort of things do take a fair amount of time to get done, even by someone with my experience. If you rush things like this, you get something that looks like it has been rushed. Take your time and things turn out a lot better. Do your planning beforehand and you won't be in for any surprises.
They have turned out just how I wanted, the left hand one looks definitely 50'/60's retro, and 'beefy' looking. The other has had an extra set of holes put in from my original concept. It also looks like a large version of a Meccano pulley, so the kids hopefully will relate to it.



All the work on these wheels was done on a RT with just one cutter, a 4.5mm three flute slot drill, and a notepad to write down the settings as I went from stage to stage, so each section is exactly the same. Also you need a big sign on the door of your shop with the words 'Do Not Disturb', it only takes one lapse of concentration and you will be doing an on the run redesign.

John



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Old 01-06-2008, 05:15 PM   #43
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Default Re: Finger engine

Looks good John:O)

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A Gismo ??? If it has a flywheel or spins and is made with small parts. I'll take one! If it makes noise, moves, or requires frequent oiling and dusting it's a better deal yet. It's especially right if its shiny and bright.

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Old 01-06-2008, 11:00 PM   #44
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Default Re: Finger engine

Beautiful John....just a really great job. How do you debur those spokes and holes? I am still not happy with some of my deburing jobs.....

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Old 01-07-2008, 12:20 AM   #45
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Those will probably go like mad with bearings on the crank like that:O)

Wes

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A Gismo ??? If it has a flywheel or spins and is made with small parts. I'll take one! If it makes noise, moves, or requires frequent oiling and dusting it's a better deal yet. It's especially right if its shiny and bright.

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Old 01-07-2008, 12:38 AM   #46
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For the one with all the holes in, because I used a milling cutter for drilling there was no burring to talk about, just a wipe over with a scotchbrite pad and it was smooth. Final buffing will round out the hole edges, so no sharp spots at all.
Normally for round holes below 1/2" I have a very shallow rake countersink mounted with a handle that I use for deburring, above that size, depending on the material, I use either one of the cranked deburring tools, or a scotchbrite pad formed into a ball.
For most other deburring I use a scraper, very rarely do I use a file. I have a fairly old Olfa laminate cutter.

http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Laminate-Cutter-Heavy-5012/dp/B000BNLIKW

It uses cheap solid tungsten blades that seem to last forever, they break because I have put too much pressure on rather than going blunt, and I just scrape all tooling marks and burrs away. It can also be used for cutting laminates, thin ali and plastic sheet. For heavy scraping I use the flat area closest to the handle.

Wes,
I lashed one up the other day with a way out of balance flywheel, got it up to speed and let it run by itself, must have lasted about a minute.

John

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Old 01-07-2008, 01:56 AM   #47
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Default Re: Finger engine

John, I really liked the curved deburring tools and the Olfa is cheap, so I ordered one after seeing your note. Another deburring gizmo I like are the Keo Zero Flutes from Enco. Pop one in a hand drill (or if you're feeling spendy and have air all the time an air drill) and it puts a nice subtle chamfer on any hole you like.

Best,

BW

PS Love the blingey flywheels. I haven't even got an engine in sight to build yet and I almost went down to the shop to try to make one! LOL

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Old 01-07-2008, 02:17 AM   #48
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Bob,
These flywheels could most probably be made by the CNC lads in a few minutes, but I just like making them, I suppose one day I will figure out how to make the curved spoked ones.

John

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Old 01-07-2008, 02:28 AM   #49
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Default Re: Finger engine

Bogstandard, curved spokes are covered by one of the Duclos articles. You can probably track it down. Clever arrangement. I was just looking over it the other day, but don't have it handy to pass on more info. It's in one of the Shop Wisdom books by Village Press.

Best,

BW

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Old 01-07-2008, 08:57 PM   #50
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Only managed to get a couple of hours in today but did get to a stage to show how I am fitting the bearing pins for everthing to swing on.
What I have done is to make the pins to go thru the bearing blocks and loctited into position, and when mounted onto the bedplate the ends nearly touch, at the same time the spacers are loctited onto the pins. Doing it this way will allow replacement and assembly very easy. The same method will be used for mounting the conrod into the fork on the top.
In the background are the two flywheels after boring and first polish. I am leaving the centres as brushed aluminium, nice contrast, plus it will take hours to manually polish, so they are staying as is.



Very nearly there.


John



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