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Old 12-12-2007, 09:37 PM   #1
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Default Finger engine

I was having a bit of a discussion with Wareagle about 'bling' and his great little finger engine, this led to me decide that I would give a couple to friends as christmas gifts, as a part 'payment' for all the help they have given me throughout the year, a bottle of scotch will be the other part. This doesn't leave me long to get three done (a little bit of a special one for myself).

So if anyone wants to build one I have done a sketch, not plans, just a 'roughie' with the working dimensions on it, the rest will be a 'wing it' job.

I have picked up a piccy from somewhere, but can't remember where, so if you recognise it, chirp up and you will get recognition for the basic besign.

Now to start.



I drew up some dimensions for a full sided one as in the pic, or as two seperate standards, which is the type I am doing (easier on the ali plate stock). My ali disc has been marked out to give me the rough metal for the six larger standards that are required, and I might be able to get a few of the smaller ones out of the bits I cut off.
There is a selection of bearings, both roller and oilite (decision on what is going to be used comes later) and a couple of bits of brass bar to be the axles. I have already roughed out a couple of 3" flywheels (the ones for mine are still in my head, but will be rather unusual).

So here is my working drawing, I have even kept it in imperial to help our colonial cousins if they decide to try one.



So, bling fairies dragged off my other project for the moment, and full speed ahead on these.


John



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Old 12-12-2007, 09:48 PM   #2
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Default Re: Finger engine

Bog, it looks like you have a great start there. The finger engine I built wasn't draw either. I built it out of pieces of scrap I had laying around, and just made everything to "fit". It was a fun build, and I think the part of figuring out what would work here and there was a big part of the fun.

I am sure your friends will really enjoy the little engines a great deal! I am looking forward to seeing the final products!



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Old 12-13-2007, 01:00 AM   #3
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Default Re: Finger engine

That will look nice. I want to make one from castings. I think mine will be a tad bigger though?

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A Gismo ??? If it has a flywheel or spins and is made with small parts. I'll take one! If it makes noise, moves, or requires frequent oiling and dusting it's a better deal yet. It's especially right if its shiny and bright.

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Old 12-13-2007, 03:20 AM   #4
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Default Re: Finger engine

Here's a casting I made for a treadle engine. It's cast from Zinc / Aluminum alloy, mostly Zinc, and weighs about the same as cast iron. The base is 4.5 inches long and the vertical pieces are 2" high.


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Old 12-13-2007, 05:30 AM   #5
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Wareagle,
I just love these little projects, get a bit of metal and 'wing it' and see what comes out of it. Total relaxation from making from plans, nothing too critical.

PK,
This could easily be made a bit longer, just add a bit to the overall length and add the same figure to the conrod length. When going for 'larger', maybe you should consider who is going to be playing with it. If it is breadsnatchers, they might not have the power in their grubby little digits to turn it over. I kept mine compact because of the metal required to make them, just to keep it under control.

Chuck,
Lovely bit of casting, my atlas lathe is covered in mazak parts (including the gear train), and is nearing 70 years old, so it is very hard wearing.
But I think you may have made a slight mistake by showing it on here. Methinks you will have to get your casting boots on because you just might be inundated for people wanting one.

John

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Old 12-13-2007, 07:48 PM   #6
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I am going to continue this build but using smaller pictures otherwise it could get very boring scrolling thru it all. I will be bouncing from one machining operation to another, if you don't understand anything then just ask, and I will give you as much info as I am able.
I will be showing how I get things done with tips on how I do it, and sometimes the reasons behind why I do it that way. Your way may be different, but if we get to the same conclusion, who cares, we are here to make little engines.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I showed you last time that I had marked out the large vertical uprights, this next pic shows that I have cut them out using my little B&D upright bandsaw.



Now what I have done with these is to stick them together with double sided tape. This will allow me to machine them all to the same size. This technique works as long as there are no free blocks outside the grip of the vice jaws. This will be self explanatory over the next couple of pics.



This and the next pic are not very good, but they do show that the blocks are held together by the vice jaws, the tape stops them moving about when they are released from the jaws. This shot shows the second side being fly cut after the first side was faced and is now tapped down onto a parallel (in this case a 1-2-3 block). These faces are machined down until the correct width is reached. By having them stuck together allows you to take them out as a solid block for measurement.



On this shot I am squaring up the end of the uprights (If this was a solid block rather than laminations I would just pop it into my four jaw and face up using that, it gives a much better finish). But I only do this on one end. It is then deburred and put down in the vice onto paras, and the top face is cleaned up with a flycutter. The job is then turned over so the just flycut face is now down onto the para and the upper face is then flycut to give the correct height. There is a reason for doing this, a couple of extra minutes spent flycutting will save hours on cleaning up the edges by hand, as when faced up with an endmill the finish is never really as good as a flycut face.



Here are the six required plates, machined to size with nice mirror finished edges. It is a shame that they will have to be removed, except for the bottom, when the plate is profiled, but doing it this way will ensure all the holes are in the right places.



What I have done is marked a corner on each plate, this is the datum corner, so when the machine is set up to drill, the plates are placed into the vice in the same position. This will ensure the side and end holes are all in the same position to each other. Here is showing using the edge finder to get the edge of the plate so I can then position the drill to put the bearing hole thru. The table is then locked up solid. You will also notice I am using a backstop. This allows me to drill a hole, replace the plate and drill a hole in the same position on the new plate. It is the only way to go if you are making multiple parts.



The bearing holes have been drilled and deburred and are now down in the chuck jaws and I am edge finding again to find the location of the tapped and dowel holes. Again everything is locked up and the backstop used for locating the new part.



Here are the three finished pairs of uprights before profiling. I have decided to use roller bearings in them, but just plain holes will do as long as they are a nice sliding fit and not too loose, and a bit of lube is used, the choice is your own.
Now you ask, what is the dowelled hole for? I am a cheapskate, so if I can get away without using something I will. Normally you would use two screws to hold the upright to the baseplate, but in this case, even a small screw would be plenty strong enough to hold it, so what I have done is just put another hole in the bottom of the upright, and a matching one in the baseplate will have a little bit of rod put in there and this will be a location point to stop the upright moving, and the screw secures it to the baseplate.

Thats it for this post. If you are finding it boring or uninformative just let me know and I will stop.
If not, I expect to have these engines to a running state by early next week.
The medicos got at me this morning so I just might be going a little slow for a day or two.

John

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Old 12-13-2007, 10:18 PM   #7
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Default Re: Finger engine

It's not boring. We are just waiting for more. My son decided he wants to build one of these a few days ago. Your tutorial came at a perfect time.

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Old 12-13-2007, 10:40 PM   #8
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Hi K,
Sorry it is not a planset, but it should give you a general layout for you to make your own.
Please don't take everything I do as set in stone, the way I do things might be slightly different to how you do it. Just modify the info to suit yourself, and I hope your little one enjoys doing it.
As I get a little further along and see what is needed I will put up a sketch for baseplate measurements. Plus tomorrow I can put up a sketch for the holes in the large standard which I did today as they are not dimensioned in my first sketch.

John

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Old 12-13-2007, 11:56 PM   #9
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Default Re: Finger engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kactiguy
It's not boring. We are just waiting for more. My son decided he wants to build one of these a few days ago. Your tutorial came at a perfect time.
That is great! Get the kids involved, and encourage them to learn the hobby. It applies to so many facets of life! And it is a very easy project (or as hard as you want) to build. One of the Home Shop Machinist issues have a finger engine in it that is a little bit different than what is shown on this thread if you would like to have a plan. If my memory serves me right, it was geared toward a high school shop student's abilities.

Enjoy the time with your son! Those memories will be golden!!
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Old 12-14-2007, 04:24 AM   #10
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Default Re: Finger engine

Deere has informed me that this is the one I have based mine on

http://www.billreichart.com/images/thumbfunengine_lrg.jpg

Many thanks D, and to Bill Reichart for the inspiration.

The planset is from here

http://www.billreichart.com/engines.shtml#thumb

John



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